anybody find a controller S or DUKE pin-out yet?

You can look right onto the controller and look for specific test points. The S controller is a bit harder being that I have a madcatz see thru one and I didn't see any Test Points. But I haven't seen a pinout for it yet.

TTT since the pinouts are working again.

Those different controllers are great!/ I didn't even know that was possible!
Do you also know how to connect a gamecube controller to the xbox?
Or even better, an xbox controller to the gamecube.

Haha can you imagine how much fun that would be, when you go play gamecube with your friends,
and you'r like, here I got my own controller "WTF" and you plug the xbox controller in the GC. hahaha.
Yeah I'd like that .

What kind of VGA should i order from ebay?

fuckin bump cause im going to do this

My SNES Controller looks like this:



It looks like a regular SNES controller, but could be a foreign knock off. Any ideas on what I can do with this?

I sent a PM on this a few days ago. I didn't get any reply. Does anybody know how to make this SNES controller work?

Since the chip is under the black blob, you'll have to work a little more to get it to work, but it's still easy in my opinion.

Just a little outside each of the buttons there is a circle of copper. These circles are where you will need to solder to. Simply use a razor to scrape them down and solder the corresponding wires to them. You'll find that the ground can be soldered to the top right solder point. As for the L and R buttons, simply find the two points on the board that the wires from them are soldered to and solder onto those (but make sure you don't solder to the wire going to the ground!).

Hope this helps! PM me if you have any more questions

EDIT: After posting, I realized that the chip under the black stuff might interfere with this mod working. If you get everything all soldered in and the controller does not work, you might have to use your razor or something to remove the chip and black stuff (i know theres a word for it - brain fart).

Thanks for the reply. I think I'm going to take a heat gun to the black blob of gunk and try to do the tutorial as stated above. I didn't realize the chip was under there..

ok, its two in the morning. and i have my n64 controller in pieces and i'm trying to pinout where to put all the wires for the mod. so hopefully soon i'll have something probably tomorrow after work or sleep.

PS.

as for the extra 4 buttons, wire a usb cable along with it and just tape it in a couple of spots along the vga cable and have it connect on the duke memory card housing.

diagrams and more ideas later.

well 2hrs and 50 mins later heres what i've come up with.

UP............................PIN 3
DOWN.......................PIN 5
LEFT.........................PIN 4
RIGHT......................PIN 2
A.............................PIN 12
B.............................PIN 15
Z.............................PIN 20
START......................PIN 11
CUP.........................PIN 18
CDOWN....................PIN 13
CLEFT.......................PIN 17
CRIGHT....................PIN 14
RTRIGGER................PIN 21
LTRIGGER.................PIN 58
AUP..........................???
ADOWN.....................???
ALEFT........................???
ARIGHT.....................???

STICK PINS ON CONTROLLER PCB CHIP UP, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT

SPOT 1.........................PIN 6
SPOT 2.........................GROUND
SPOT 3.........................GROUND
SPOT 4.........................PIN 7
SPOT 5.........................PIN 9
SPOT 6.........................PIN 8

If someone could double check my findings, to make sure I traced them correctly. I'll try again tomorrow to check. And also if anyone knows where to find the info on the Stick PCB would be extremely helpful.

Has anyone done a N64 controller or a PS1 controller?

i purchased an svga cable, ready to tackle the duke and snes controllers, but the cable only had 12 wires in it! there were the normal colors, and then 3 fat wires colored blue, red, and green...there werent any with stripes... is this cause it's an svga cable? anyone know where to get one that'll have enough wires?

So you sayin' that will enable all the old systems to be played on PC monitors?

no, this old thread was a discussion on adapting retro controllers for use on the xbox....

my question is about the cables used to do it... is there a cable count difference in vga and svga? does anyone have a preference as to their vga cable?

okay, this is an update for anybody who's out there trying to convert these controllers still...

The HD15 vga cables (at least the ones i've found) aren't going to work anymore. There are actually only 12 wires running through them now because the shielding and insultion (or something like that) are used for the 13th and 14th wires, so it's really not practical to use them anymore.

However, i did find that the DB15 cables actually use 15 individual wires running through them. They have a different shape and it might be more difficult to mount it into the memory card slot of your duke controller, but it should still work non-the-same!

the cheapest place i found the db15's was at http://www.cablewholesale.com/ . So if anyone's still trying to mod these controllers this late in the game, heres an update.

Hi I had a few questions.

1. I have a female 15 pin vga port and a male vga 15 pin port also. I bought them from radioshack. Anyway I had a question they don't have wires so I really can't understand your schematic. I was wondering what pins would do what. I've seen a lot of pictures of the pins usually right to left 1-15 but I can't find one with the pins laid out with wires attached.

2. Also if I install a vga port into my duke can I still use it for games such as halo and stuff then could switch it with a different controller via vga if possible for my homebrewed games?

3. Is there a tutorial on how to install a vga port and a headphone jack inside the xbox? Or just a headphone jack? I would really like pictures if possible I've always seen schematics but they really don't give me the best understanding.

4. If I installed a vga port inside the xbox could I use it on normal xbox games and movies? Or do I need special bios. Would I need a modchip? Or could I be able to tsop flash the xbox with it? If a modchip is needed would a duox2 lite work or a duox 2?

5. If I just install a headphone jack could I be able to choose between tv or headphone?


thanks in advanced.

hey man can you post the specific cord you used? some of the ones i get have 7 wires..

i'd really like to know if anyone has done it

I may be mistaken but it appears that your diagram for the 7800 controller is incorrect. From the picture, it looks like you have the to action buttons wired in parallel using one pair of wires (one function regardless of button pressed) when in fact, the 2 action buttons on the 7800 controller, when playing 7800 games, served 2 functions on some games (I.E. Cracked where one button caught falling eggs and the other button fired).

To me, this method is not truly authentic.... If I am correct on your diagram.

If I am mistaken, Please disregard.

I'm going to get a ps2 to xbox adapter...but still, i'd like to make a genesis, snes, and nes controllers. But nobody will tell me what VGA to get the ones i get have 7 wires...

What does the fuzzed wire on the image mean? I fault on your behalf or a specific wire?

I'm losing my fucking head and patience here!
The fucking solder pins on the xbox are so tiny! Anyway, I got them all done except one, which is the hardest: all the solder from the pcb is gone and it wont attach. What can I use to get solder on the tiny pad again? Flux?

Is there anyone who can offer doing the job or selling premodded controller? Name your price by PM.

Dennis

To resolder bare pads, I grab my cutting pliers (or scissors in a pinch) and cut the smallest sliver of solder off my reel as possible. I put this thing on the pad, then apply the soldering iron.

Hold a needle or pin in your other hand to poke it around with. Makes it very easy to unbridge accidentally joined points and so forth.

Won't the wires break off from the solder when you press buttons and move the gamepad around? There aren't really any wires soldered to the pads originally since they all use clips, anyone had to resolder the wires or are they safe?

A soldering is safe as long as you don't put too much mechanical pressure on it.
I have seen 2 reasons for solderings to fail.

1. The soldered component is heating up during operation.
(This happens with power resistors and transistors. If your wires heat up, you have a serious problem.)

2. The component is vibrating.
Even if you don't see it, some components can vibrate.
This usually happens when the equipment is used in car's or ships. For that reason, you might see components like electrolityc capacitors that are glued to the pcb.

So, if you solder a wire, attach it to the pcb with a drop of hot glue, a few inches from the soldering.
Doing so, the wire can't move if you move the controller around.

regards.

That's a great idea, I'm definitely doing that, I was thinking in hot gluing the solder points but that's safer.

Hey. I realise my question will be slightly off topic but I plan to post my snes & megadrive mod on this thread.

Anyway, can anyone recommend a glue to repair a broken snes trigger button? I think super glue would be too brittle so need a glue that probably melts the plastic slightly when bonded for a stronger fix. Im based in the UK.

Heres a pic of the break:



Thanks for any help.

Here's the 3 button megadrive pad which is from the UK.



You can reuse its cable which has exactly the right number of wires!



NB: Ignore the wire colourings, I didnt follow the OP's tutorial on this thread. I used a DB-15 connector too as it fits perfect in the xbox controller. I'll post pics of my retro > xbox at some point.

Edit: By the way the wording hidden under the wire is "Mega Drive Control Pad".

Have you checked the SNES gamepad clones? Maybe they're a perfect fit. Good work with the MD mod, what VGA connecter is that? Never seen one with screws.

I havent. Where could I find them? Ebay? Its a bit risky though without seeing what it looks like inside.


Its not a VGA connector, its a D-Range 15-Way Plug, often called DB-15. And the cover for it was bought seperately. Both were bought from Maplin.

DB-15 - http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1113 (Doesn't seem to have a pic of it on their page, heres what it looks like http://www.computercablestore.com/images/p.../1-DB15FSCW.jpg)

DB-15 Hood - http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1127

The screws holds down a strip of plastic which clamps the cable down, rather like the mains plugs have, so it wont budge in those intense gaming sessions!

It's these ones:

https://www.cliffracer.com/store/product_in...nfkwrlhphmhewll


Thanks for the info on the connector.

Okay, well Ill have a look on ebay as thats an american site and Im in the UK. Pity they dont do the multicoloured buttoned pal version like this one though:



Ill search around to see if someones opened up a clone too. Might get some clues somewhere.

Thanks

Edit: Looks like this what it looks like:



Ignore the pcb though, thats someone adding usb wii compatibility. The only difference looks like my pad has a metal pole which goes through the lever bit, its a plastic one on that. Everything else looks the same so it might work.

The site is http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/x2wii/index_en.php if anyones interested.

Nevermind. I got 2 faulty ones off ebay cheap.

Any one looking to connect a N64 controller directly can forget it. The analog is read in the same fashion as a mouse (wheels with holes). Maybe if the chip were reverse engineered to input a DAC in the circuit?

You can look here for the pinout: http://sn64.blogspot.com/2007/06/mx1720fc-pinouts.html

Also, here is a description (from http://www.theicstock.com/stock-MX1/MX1720FC.html):



I know that there was a how-to from a college project on the net to get the data from the controller via the connector, and your best bets will be converting the output of one of the following to an xbox output via a PIC.

http://www.goldenshop.com.hk/AI-trad/pc/pc_psxn64usb.htm
http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-6m-49-en-70-3d9o.html

Of course, this may be the holy grail: http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/gc_n64_usb/index_en.php

I just emailed the guy at http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/gc_n64_usb/index_en.php and asked him to update the output of the converter to the info found at http://euc.jp/periphs/xbox-controller.ja.html (which is where the xbox-linux project got their info from). Awaiting response.

As promised, here's the PAL snes pcb image for wiring up:



I have a tutorial on how I made the Megadrive and SNES pads for the xbox here.

Comments welcome!

I need some help with a controller that I did.

I have a problem with my Sega controller mod.


When I press two buttons at a time the controller bugs out and will press a combination of buttons that is the same each time. I can't figure out what combination either. This makes playing sega games on my xbox very annoying and unplayable.

There isn't a problem with the VGA connection in the xbox controller. I have tested every button with a volt meter; also, my NES controller works fine.

I noticed that when I press a button on the sega controller all other buttons dip in ACV output when they should stay the same.

I realize that this is a rather confusing problem. And if anyone could offer any insight as to why this happens I would greatly appreciate it.

The ACV level will drop to 0 if a button is pressed. So pressing 2 buttons will actually be pressing many buttons as show with the volt meter. I can't find any shorts or crosses and that is why I find this so weird.

Did you remove the chips and all the tiny rectangular resistors? If not, that would cause the signal to go haywire as currents still pass though.

Thanks for the tutorials bassquake, I think I'll try the SNES one first, I have the xbox duke controller, the vga cable and just need a pad, are you going to try on a MD 6 button pad too?

hello. trying this out for the first time. got 2 nes controllers working great! but a few problems with genesis and the fat boy it self:

1. do i need to remove all resistors on genesis controllers? i made a 3 button and it was all messed up but i forgot to remove the resistors in this pic by bassquake: http://img38.imageshack.us/i/megadrivepcbonlymarkedr.jpg/ (thanks a million for this btw). i went back took those off and some of my issues were solved but C is still messed up and i think A and B are the same button. see how all the resistors in that pic on the right are removed but not the left or the bottom ones? maybe he just didn't do it before this pic? the only button messed up on this 3 button controller is C. it thinks im holding down "speed up cpu" (as in makes game speed up) however that's currently mapped to right trigger and i don't have right trigger even soldered on the fat boy pcb yet. i did a 6 button and it was even more messed up. same thing, B speed things up and made neogenesis say "game loaded" ect... i didn't remove any resistors on this board. do i need to remove all on both?

2. where is tp63 on the fat boy? i looked all over it and cant see it anywhere. I'm pretty sure i found tp64 OK. there is sorta an arrow to what i think it is.

3. last i have a genesis controller that is different than both bassquakes and pimpmaul69's and need to know the tp points or at least how to figure out my self what tp points i need to solder what to. here's a pic of the pcb:
its similar to bassquakes. but different.



p.s. i live in the states and found that same 3 button genesis pcb in a controller as bassquake's "pal MD 3 button". it has a grey start button and says sega genesis on it. guess they used it here too.

ok i solved #1 and #2. turns out i had my "B" button on the wrong TP point on my modded xbox controller. all that went away. and for #2 i just soldered to the middle left trigger solder point on the other side of the controller. still would like to know how i can findout the solder points on the genesis controller though (#3)? i have a multimeter in the mail. should be here soon. ill start to mess around with it see if i cant figure it out. but if someone is will to say how to figure where to solder which wire on a pcb that would help.

here is my only real problem right now. my white button thinks its held down all the time on my fat boy controller. even when a retro isnt hooked up to the db15. the solder looks good and its in the right place. here are some pics:




its the yellow one on TP72.

im going to make another xbox controller db15 mod here in the next day or two. ill see if it does it again. could it be that i just need to put the controller back together? why wouldn't other buttons have this problem? any thoughts?

alright just made another fat boy and it works perfect. i even tried desoldering the "white" TP (TP72 yellow) and soldering it back again as best i could. same results. the solder looks perfect. the problem i think must be somewhere else. but where?


(ever get the feeling your talking to yourself lol)

i am attempting to use a wireless controller so a totally different PCB than the fatboy which i am pretty confident i can figure out except for finding where to ground and where to use the +5v. should i use a voltmeter and just test spots or is there a specific place the +5V needs to connect to?

Does anyone know if I can safely desolder and remove the triggers, analog controllers, and memory card ports off of the PCB and not affect its functionality?

I'm making a two-player version of this and trying to get everything to fit inside a fairly small enclosure but these parts are too bulky....

Memory unit connectors, yes. Analogue sticks, no. They would have to be either replaced with some resistors to keep the sticks outputting an "at dead zone" signal, or removed and then wired remotely somewhere else. You might be able to save SOME space by removing the plastic thumb stick parts and then cutting off the rods that they attach to.

Not sure about the triggers.

HERE is the topic page if you remove the analog sticks. Use the same process for the triggers because they are both analog. The memory card port can be removed without any problems with functionality.



What wireless controller are you trying this mod with? I was in the process of using a logitech wireless controller but gave up because it is a Matrix layout and not a common ground. So each button would have needed two wires instead of just the main ground wire and one other wire from each button like on the common ground controllers.

grantshoarma you have any pics of your enclosure?

I'm just using this thing from radioshack, but can post photos of the entire thing when it's done. I almost used the cage from an old gutted PC PSU, but it was just a little too ugly for the living room...