I've seen this happen a lot, hell, I've done it myself, you break off a component on the motherboard, then have no idea what it is, to find a replacement.

I just bought a dead X360 motherboard, I've pretty much given up on fixing it, it's pretty far gone (fell off a balcony), so here's what I'm gonna do:

For anybody that has broken off a component on a 360 mobo, give the part number on the board and I will remove the part from this parts board, measure the part, and reply back with the value so you can find a proper replacement. I may offer some of the larger components for sale (connectors, switches, coils, capacitors, larger IC's, etc).

I'll keep you updated, this is definitely going to be my parts board unless by some miracle I can fix it (Best I got out of it was to boot then freeze immediately in the little startup animation).

Later

-Tim

C6D4, C7D2: Capacitor, 0603, 2.4uF

reserved for additional listing

reserved for additional listing

Hey Maxx, if you could take a look at my MOBO I would greatly appreciate it. I've performed a couple of your mods and they've all worked. I think I may have grounded out either those MOSFET chips you mentioned or something else. I viewed a diagram compiled by you and one of the other guys that shows of all the ground points. Well unfortunately I didn't see the point which I chose to ground to in that diagram. I've added a 12V CPU fan to the system and grounded it to the HDD metal casing instead of one of the ones highligted in that diagram mentioned above. Is it possible that this may have caused the chips or anything else to malfunction?

Hi.

Anybody could say me the values of this components :S, please? I neet repair R8A2 from PC

R8A1
R8A2
C8A1
C8A2


Thasnks

R8A1 - 10k

R8A2 - 100ohm

C8A1 - Not sure of the exact value, most likely a .01uf or .001uf (exact value wouldn't really matter since it's a filter cap) and it'll be fine with it missing if ya just want to leave it out.

C8A2 - Not Installed

Thanks a lot!!! last question, you know if can I use a resistor with tolerance +-1%?

Can i ask how did or plan get the connectors soldered off from the motherboard and can the connectors be replaced.Specifically the power and rf connectors

Yes, for those anything that's +/- 5% will be fine though, either way.


Yes they can be replaced. Ya just have to use a good amount of heat, especially on the ground lugs and connections since you're heating up all of that extra copper.

Thanks alot rdc mate and want to ask is it worth replacing power and rf connectors or just buy a new xbox.Coz the pins are broken and need to replace

It would be worth replacing them if the 360 is still in good working order and that's all that's wrong with it, I don't see any need to replace the whole thing for a couple of shot connectors and there are plenty of bad 360 motherboards around ya can get the connectors from.

Hi Tim

Can you tell what component C5R18 under the GPU is as i've knocked it off?

Many thanks
steve

Can you tell me the value of C4R53? It's located under the GPU opposite side of the board.

Thank you

C4R53: I wouldn't worry about it, the 360 will run fine without it. Only if a significant number of those caps are missing will it cause issues (fluctuations in the power supply), you will probably do more damage trying to replace it.

You know the values of this element? C9D4

It is the 5V+ in the picture:


Thanks a lot again ''

Anybody?

Maybe was it 4'7 ,uF?

Anyone know what these are and where to get one? A friend knocked one off from the backside of the mobo/processor.


http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=icix1.jpg

It's fine missing, if ya want one that's the same value you'll have to pull it from another 360 board, no one has all the component values yet. If ya want a guess I'd say they're just 0.1uf or 0.01uf, they're just filter caps is all, could be anything under 1uf really, 0.47uf would work as well and it doesn't need to be any specific value.


They're Capacitors and it's fine missing a few of them, not going to hurt a thing.

Hmm well it's definitley RRoD and no video. I can hear it boot up, but get 2 red flashign lights....thoughts?

I think if you think that cap missing is causing it you're not thinking right.

2RL is overheating. You've obviously bit off more than ya can chew with this thing. Get out the magnifying glass and go looking for any other missing components or possibly traces that were gouged and are now cut. Could be how you have the heatsinks mounted, could be too loose, could be too tight causing a short or other open on some BGA joint, either way I hope they're at least on there or you'll know why it's throwing the 2RL.

Thanks for the help. I'll take a look tonight and see what I can find.

It works!!! I tried with other capacitor with the same size and colour from an older network card.

Hi,i wanna know if the side matters on how i solder them or not? i mean--->these capacitors have one + and one - side,correct

How about R3D4 I think they're 1kohm but not sure about wattage or if it matters.



Is there another nearby, they should orient the same way. PCB's are usually designed that way.

R3D4 is a 60 Ohm 1/16W 0402 SMT Resistor. Ya can use any W rating ya like though.


The small SMT caps with no markings can be installed either way, they are not polarized.

Thanks RDC I measured it but I got 1000 ohms, I thought it might be wrong cause it seems kinda small to be that high. In case it matters I got error code 0031 with that resistor removed from board, not on purpose. OOOoooopps.

The size of the Resistor has nothing to do with it's Ohm value, Watt rating yes, but Ohm wise it could be any value really.

I found some 56 ohm resistor with 1/10th watt at 5% these are the closest I could find at the store near me.
I think these will work but not sure.

They should do fine, the thing just seems to be a pull-up on the CLK line anyway, so anything around 60Ohms should be alright to use.

Size wise ya may have to mess with it to get it to fit, but the 56Ohm value of it should be alright to use.

Worst case scenario, is there anyway around replacing this resistor. Can it be bridged or does it have to get fixed to prevent rrod.

I wouldn't bridge it at all, at least put the 56Ohm in there. Worst case get a 1/8w or 1/4w close to that 60Ohm value and solder wires to it, then the other ends of the wires to the pads where the original Resistor was, that work is a little delicate as well, but at least it'll still be in the circuit like it needs to be.

yeah i think using some wires is the only way it's gonna work too cramped a space, is there such a thing as liquid solder and if so where can i find some. srry if this is a stupid question.

Ya don't really think having a conductive liquid on the motherboard is a good idea do ya? If ya can't solder to those spots get someone who can, last thing ya want to do is go making it worse off than it already is.

Pleaae somebody sayme the value of the C5G2, this capacitor is near of the back of the sincroswicht, please helpme

You're fine with C5G2 missing, it's not going to cause any problems.

Thanks RDC, but why the xbox gives the 3 red lights? This is what happend,,,,,,when I turn on de xbox after 5 min. the 3 red lights appears, and I check my mobo. and just de C5G2 is missing, thast why I think thats de problemn........ I can see this little capacitor joins a resistensia and the other side a transistor. Please help me what I have to do

Hi, this is a great thread.

I am missing the following transistor (I think it is) U6T1 (it is connected with the eFuse). This was ripped off when I tried to do the xclamp fix. The xbox still worked well until I did the update to the NXE. Then an error e80 appeared. I bought a 5 pin transistor and soldered it onto the board again and now I have the error 0022. Could you please provide me with the exact type U6T1 is?

I also would like to know what CR6T1 is exactly because I need to exchange it also (I guess).

Thanks in advance and best regards,
matgumax

It's most likely a bad BGA joint on the GPU/CPU causing it, find out what the secondary error code is. If it's 0022 or 0102 then try one of the X-clamp fixes and see if that does anything for it.



U6T1 (The U means it's some type of IC, a Transistor would be labeled Q) seems to be some sort of VLDO Regulator, though exactly which one I couldn't say for sure. Best thing to do would be to get one from another board, and it can be replaced by U6T1 or U6T2 as the board is setup to use either one. You'll have to replace R6T3 to get rid of the e80 error code also if it was removed.

CR6T1 is a Diode package of some type, probably protection, and would also be best to get it from another 360 board if ya are going to replace it.

I need these mosfets near the ANA chip. I will include a picture for referance.

Those aren't MOSFETs, they're Fixed Voltage Regulators, a 1.8v and a 3.3v. Unless they were removed or physically damaged in some way they're most likely still good.

If ya need to test them plug up a PSU and measure the voltage on the tab of them. That's where the 3.3v and 1.8v standby voltages come from, so the 360 doesn't have to be on to check them, just have to have the PSU plugged up.

Hi!
I would know the value of this component:
R3P6
R3P7
C2N1
R1M2

thnks for help

R3P6 - 10k

R3P7 - 1k

R1M2 - 0ohm jumper

C2N1 - Is a Decoupling Capacitor and it's value, as with most of the SMT Caps on the board, isn't known. You can replace it with just about anything from 0.01uF to 0.001uF and it'll be fine, or just leave it off and it'll be alright with it missing as it's not a critical component.

Thank you very much!!

What are the values for

C9A2 - In front of power supply
C3R2 - Back of mobo in infront of a ram chip
C4U1 - Looks the same as the c3r2

Would a ram chip still function if its cracked on a side?

Do I need to replace the above parts or can I bridge the connection?

Never, ever bridge where a Capacitor was installed, ever. Resistors should only be when they were 0ohm jumpers to begin with as well.

None of those Capacitors missing is going to cause any issues.

The RAM having been hit that hard to have knocked some of the casing off isn't good, though it could still be attached to the board and fully functional, no way to really 100% tell on that.

Those things are capacitors, wow I must be loosing it!!!

I get the ram error code when I try to boot up, would it be worth trying to putting a new cap in?

Would reflowing mess the ram chip up worse then it is now?

I'm getting a ram error code, i don't know for sure if its becuase of the cracked ram or not. There is a trace leading under the ram that looks to be damaged, I cant test to see if its good becuase the end to test seems to be under the chip.

any known issues with a trace being damaged causin the 0110 error?

Anyone can help me with this, i want to know wich component it's this one.




Thanks in advance

That is the Horizontal/vertical sensor for the ROL