how can I convert the 12v to 3v in the Doorbell mod so I can fit it in my wireless controller??

any clues?

thanks!

it would be kind of hard to fit any mod inside a wireless controller I would think, but the smallest thing I can think of to use is a buck chopper. If you don't know what I'm talking about, google the schematics for it

I have a pelican blade ... there seems to enough room in there.

You could look on the Internet for cell phone car chargers. Do a search for which cell phones require 3.3V and get a charger for it. Take the charger apart and you will see a PCB which converts 12V to 3.3V. Of course you can build one with an LM317 (>$1) and two resistors if you know your electronics, but the car charger may be easier if you can find a surplus one.

Of course, you don't want to try this out if you aren't sure of what you are doing. The good news is that if you fry anything in your xbox, it would probably be the USB board which can be replaced.

LM317 with a 12v source can get too hot to operate w/o a heat sink, and thus taking up much room, and having it too close to components that are heat sensitive in the controller. I would also recomend a buck converter to drop the DC 12v to DC 3v. Information on these can be found on Wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck_converter

It does involve a little calculus to understand the nitty gritty of it (got to love those solid state components!). I'm sure you can Google a schematic you can easily copy piece by piece and order parts for from any electronics supplier.

are you talking about going from 3v to 12v?

i mean two batteries from controller = 3v and the doorbell i have is a small 12v

if i am understanding correctly its a no go

what i started to do was remove one of the rumble pads and strip the board down and it will fit pretty well with the battery. i was using a logitech though

The circuit shown below should cater to your needs:



Regards,
DarkMatter

Um, OK. How on earth is this going to produce a stable voltage???

[edit]: TheDevil, how much current does the thingy pull??

Good job DM, I was thinking about a simple Zener diode last night. Except R1 should be on the other side of the diode, otherwise the zener will drop the 12V bus down to 3.3V or blow up, whatever comes first.

The stable voltage comes from the fact that no matter what the input voltage (so long as it is above the zener voltage of 3.3V in this case), the zener diode will drop any voltage above 3.3V attached to it down to 3.3V.

This circuit is normally used as a voltage reference, but can be used as a voltage regulator in low power applications.

R1 limits the current that D1 needs to "short out" and should be scaled to the current you need to draw.

A zener type circuit should really only be used as a voltage reference.
To create a more stable voltage a circuit similar to below could be used:



But, hey, this kinda looks like...

yep - a linear regulator!!


Just use a fixed, 3.3V switching regulator.

i think you are all missing the point

the doorbell runs on 12v, the controller on 3v

So that should read "how to make the 12V doorbell run from 3V"??

In the doorbell, is the 12V stepped down to a lower voltage or do some of the components require 12V? If the latter, you'll need a boost converter that will draw current from the 3V batteries to produce 12V. Alternatively, you could install a 12V battery (like a camera battery) and a small regulator to drop the voltage down to 3V for the controller, then you'll have both 12V and 3V inside the controller.

You maybe better off getting a Xerc (or something similar) and putting a small IR LED inside the wireless controller.

Your 100% right zetski210. Stupid me wasn't thinking at the time. Thanx for pointing it out, otherwise people who may have tried it may have had a burn out.

Here's a fixed up version. Its rough though. Couldn't be fagged doing it properly:



I have to admit that your circuit (zetski210), would be much more stable, plus allow a good current draw, but I thought I would make mine simple since he hasn't got much room inside his controller.
What proggy are you using for your schematics, Eagle, Protel etc.???
Regards,
DarkMatter

That is Mentor Graphics. Not really the ideal tool for drawing up a quick circuit (only costs a few grand!!), but I use it here at work so I just added it to my design and screen snapped it!

Also, with your circuit, the 39R resistor will need to be at least 2W as the current draw through it is over 200mA. I think that a switching regulator would be the best option, but either way, you still have to disipate a bit of power.

Hi... New here... and new to modding...

I too am looking for a solution to this problem. I have found 6v and 3v doorbell transmitters, but only with the plug in doorbells. I did find a 6v one that fits the bill, but it's some crazyazz name I have never heard of... online research yields no data... and it ships from some place in China that I cannot spell, let alone pronounce. Not to mention it's 6v and the only controller I have found that would be compatible is the Arsenal Patriot Wireless Controller that looks like a turd and has ZERO reviews that I could Google up...

So what I am thinking of now is keyless entry systems for cars...

The transmitters run off 3v lithium button batteries and are smaller than all getout so there should be no problem fitting them into a controller. The cheapest ones cost about 3x as much as the doorbell option and I think since they are made for a 12V system on the receiver side you'd have the same problem... just at the other end of the system...

Any other thoughts?

been looking into this myself for awhile with the same problem. I did find one doorbell so far that has a 3 volt remote powered from 2 aaa's but it's a plug-in receiver, and it doesn't tell what chimes it has.

with a pelican blaze you could probley fit the whole pcb and battey in there and still have room. I think if i melted mine down i could make 2 controllers.lol

Off to look some more.