Sep 26 2007, 10:17 PM
let me start out by saying that my old job I used to solder all the time and consider myself above average at soldering. The problem isnt the soldering.
I have an elite and just got my passkey in and was attempting to remove the apoxy from the board to get at the pads that i need to solder to. The problem is that NOWHERE does it say in any instructions that the pads are paper thin and will rub off at the slightest bush/push on them. I thought that it was a hard wire through the board. You would think that in the instructions that this one very important fact would be made clear for the people who have never done it before.
Im sure I saw somewhere on this message board that some is able to fix this or at least remove the keys so you can but another drive. If you have any information or can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreaciated.
I have searched the forums but canot find what im looking for.
Thanks for any input
Sep 27 2007, 12:04 AM
Post up a pic of the damage if ya can. I'm sure it's fixable and there's no point in trashing the whole drive or going thru the whole chip removal an dumping it with an external programmer just yet, both of which I can do if ya need, or repair it depending on the damage, PM me if ya need that kind of help with it.
Sep 27 2007, 01:14 AM
Thats awesome RDC thanks for any help you can spare.
Alright guys dont laugh too hard at this lame attempt
Sep 27 2007, 02:00 AM
I don't see a thing there that would keep the drive from still working, but there's a good bit of flash and reflection to really tell. All of those traces/pads could be cut clean thru or missing with the exception of one that goes to ground there, they're really just extensions to accommodate a larger IC. As long as ya don't have any of them shorted together, and use a good magnifying glass to check, then the drive should, and most likely will, still work just fine.
As far as repairing that goes, there's really noting there that needs it and removing that IC to dump the FW would be a real waste of time and money. The trace that's still there can have the masking removed and then soldered onto instead if ya still want to go installing the passkey.
Sep 27 2007, 02:15 AM
Yeah sorry about the pic im in the basement and its dark so I had to use the flash. So you think from what you see I still should be able to use the passkey?
The second and fifth "pad" up from the bottom of the pic have been rubbed off the rest look good enough to use. From what I could see there was nothing under that part of the circuit board almost like it came out from the track to the surfaceand now its just an empty spot. Or is there something still there when a "pad" has been rubbed off?
Again I want to thank you for any input
Sep 27 2007, 02:28 AM
Yeah I'd say the drive and all is still fine, I don't see anything that will stop ya from installing it, though you'll have to jumper that trace to it or remove the masking and, in effect, make 'new' pads for it to be soldered to, but either way it's still doable.
The traces just lay on the board, it's a thin layer of copper that covers the entire board, then the design is traced onto the board and covered, washed with an acidic solution and that dissolves all the copper but the covered traces and what's left are the traces ya see. Then they're covered in that masking (the green stuff) to protect them from shorts and corrosion with any pads left uncovered and coated with solder so parts can be installed.
When a pad is removed/damaged it's just gone, nothing there in this case anyways except what's left of the trace it was attached to. Vias are the things that ya have to be extremely careful with and if that's something damaged then repairing it is more of a hassle since it's used to connect top traces on the board to bottom ones, as well as some that only go half way thru the board, just depends.
Sep 27 2007, 03:00 AM
Would I use an x-acto knife and cut away the masking to reveal some the trace to become a "pad" for soldering?
If so I may need someone with better skills than myself. Thats some small stuff and I have never worked on anything that small before.
Sep 27 2007, 03:18 AM
Sorta, you have to scrape away that masking to get to the actual 'trace' under it, the copper part. An X-acto knife is one way, a fiber glass pen is another as is some really, really fine sand paper. The X-acto knife lets ya be accurate and hit only the traces ya want to scrape, but if yer not very careful with it you'll cut thru the whole trace and just make things worse. The pen or sand paper is less dangerous, but ya end up exposing other traces ya don't need to, so ya need to be careful when soldering that ya don't get any bridges, since it'll stick to that fresh exposed copper pretty easily.
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