OMG thats awesome! i thought it was just standard rapid fire mod, wow this is amazing, ok i understand everything and so one thing, i dont need to connect it to power then? just ground as shown in this pic? - http://picasaweb.google.com/AmatuerModder/...761835347420402
seeing as i have a cg board

thanks

wheres the edit button gone? anyways im wondering if this ic socket will work - http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Module...676&doy=5m7

You need one like this IC socket

Ok it shouldn't cause in issue my buddy went ahead and hooked up both triggers but is only using the right on and he hasn't had any problems. He hasn't tried it with Halo yet but it works we debugged it to check the trigger. And you could use the simple on/off code if you're just using it for COD the code I posted is allready set-up for COD

As far as the tact switch....ok it can be hard to push if it's not centered in the hole or the hole isn't quite big enough. The antenna... if you look at the top it's narrow then once it makes the turn towards the controller board it becomes twice as wide.....well if you take a pair of snips or a dremel just knock down the wider part to the same width as the rest of it and get it as close to the board as possible. Then if you have the tact switch in the hole right it should fit. Also in order to use the tact switch in that spot the inside of the bumper plate needs to be cleared except for the piece with the circle, pretty much all of the support should be taken out then once the tact switch is in the pins that are on the tact switch need to be towards the right bumper button and make sure the glue isn't too high so everything fits back together.





The manual is in the "Editor program" (there is a link to the program on the first page of this post)

Easy, all you need is a headphone cable with a 1/8" plug, a 9pin serial plug (female) the solder 3 wires and it's done. And again it's in the manual

You can remove it but if you ever want to tweak or change the code for another game you'd screw yourself by taking it out. You could however possibly tuck it into the controller so it's out of sight till you need it??

The programming port requires you to solder 3 wires, so no it's not hard

It works for all the controllers including the CG

yea i only realised those were sold once i got home after buying the other one, can i still use the other one though? only maplin near me is quite far to go back and buy that

oh crap I got the other one. And I've already got up to putting the hot glue on it. Can I still use it or will it be too big?

Does the pot have to be any particular resistance or can it just be any. I got one from an old xbox controller trigger.

I am trying to make a rapid fire chip and I am using a PIC. I was wondering if anyone could tell me to turn off the chip when the controller works if that is a function of the microchip, or that is simply a resistor. Also would a transistor work for both the new and old style controllers?
Thanks

Hey i have a question. When ever i try to put the code into the PICAXE programmer, i always get a "setfreq is not supported in this mode!". I do not have the chip yet, could that be causing the error? Right now i just downloaded the program and entered the code and hit run, do i need the chip for it to work?

same here but i dont have the PIC connected either

You need to have the chip connected to get it to work.




Also for everyone asking about the 100k resistor I talked about in the tut. The resistor is an extra insurance policy that Vert told me about. It's used to keep the trigger pin low or high depending on which controller you have. I didn't use it and everything works fine. It is my first tut and I was trying to cover everything and got ahead of myself. I am not gonna say anything besides you DO NOT NEED the 100k resistor. If I try explaining it I will be swamped with even more questions....so scratch the 100k!


And the PM's I'm getting about asking for the codes.........read through the post!

thats a relieve.
i was wondering about the 100k but didnt decide to put it in anyway, im just waiting for my pic. one thingy, do i solder ground and power both to pin 8? if i have a cg board do i need a resistor to stop the pic using too much power?

hey AM. I asked evilcontrollers about the 4th quadrent light if it is still a funtioning light if the controller is used as the 4th and here is the reply I got:



So does this mean they just soldered on to that LED? Can anyone test this fer me? Much appreciated.

I having troubler soldering the wires to the legs any tips on that?

No resistor needed for power and pin 8 is ground and pin 1 is power. Pin 1 should have 2 wires, one for power and one to goto the tact switch. Pin 8 should have 3 wires, one for ground, one for the program port and the last one for the negative side of the LED.


Antman, I'm guessing thats what they do. I don't see a problem but I'm not a professional. Personally I'd cut the circuit traces for that LED then solder to the LED that way there is no way of possibly frying the circuit on the controller board.

Ok guys I was just looking and console customs now have a rapidfire with the status LED , which isn't that big a deal but now they have a 3 mode with a burst! I had worked on a code a month or 2 ago for something like that. I really think some jackass is taking our ideas and profiting off them. Which is really kinda crappy. Although we did kinda screwed them by like figuring out the picaxe mod. But still, I will post simple codes that have been posted allready but I will no longer be posting other "trick" codes. Let them work harder at ripping people off. I suppose I could just start selling my stuff online? A prewired socket, chip and the ability to re-program whenever you want?? Alot better then being stuck with code for just one game. Now watch withing a week they'll be selling something like that? lol

haha. that'd be funny wouldn't it? well hey guys im new here and just joined cause these fourms are awesome and i've learned a lot from them with modding. but about that statement i doubt they are "copying off of you guys im sure they have there own Dev team working non stop to do what they do also, not saying you guys aren't awesome for doing what you do but you guys are more awesome cause you do it just for fun.

i do have a few questions if you guys don't mind answering.

1. can i make this into a picaxe programmer board rather than a whole glued contraption in my controller? i do not want to be able to "multiprogram" my chip as im not really a halo 3 player but i play COD 4.

2. Where can i buy a 8m chip? radio shack by any chance?and if not can i take a 555 timer chip and flash it and write to it? or do i NEED to get a blank 8m microcontroller?

thanks guys in advance!

Thats a post from me a few pages back.


Anyway what about we start selling them for cheaper than Console customs is and then we get xbox scene to promote our ones and bag consolde customs.

Also if use a pot instead of a tact switch wont i need an extra wire and where do I connect them. Also how do i sodler wires on to the legs cause I find it hard to do it.

That sucks! I got everything mounted now into my controller and have been waiting for the picaxe chip now since 6/25/08 and still have yet to receive it and my idea about selectable trigger modes from the previous page back is down the crapper because of these guys. I hate it when other people ruin it for others. Sorry AM. Thank you for all your help though.

on post 98 I had an idea for some code and see that you had one like I was talking about on post 19. Is that the same thing as what I was asking about? Also is it written for the Matrix controller or the CG? I have the Matrix is it hard to redo to work on the Matrix if it is CG? Sorry to be a doof.

my brother stole my camera again and my camera phone sucks like hell. your lot are probably think im wierd but i outlined the pins on the headphone jack. am i suppose to solder to the 2 outer pins and the middle pin or how?
pic-

WOW! I just looked at their youtube vids and yes they totally stole this. AND they took the idea of making it on the 4th quadrant light like evil controllers. they were following this thread.

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/

Has anyone gotten the common ground code to work? I have mine hooked up and it's not working. When I try a Matrix board code, it rapid fires by itself and I can select different modes. The LED lights up like it should and changes speed, but just won't rapid fire.

Hey I finished it now all I have to do is put hot glue and install it. But to those people who are thinking of doing this. 1 tip.

When you solder the wires do pin3 and pin 7 first because if you do it like the tut you end up having to solder fropm the outside in and its a bit cramped.

If you dont like console customs copying your ideas keep them to yourself untill console customs comes up with it. Then publish a tut on how to do it. Or just wait for console customs to come up with an idea then make a diy tut for it.

Does anyone know what resistance the pot has to be if I want to use that instead of a tact switch. It tried figuring it out myself but I dont know the difference in using a 1k or a 100k. Also does anyone know what the resistance of the pots in the old xbox triggers were.

nvm about the pot anymore.

If you're really stuck on space you could always put the download circut in the download cable.

Ok well I finished it and it doesn't download. Not sure why. So I'm starting again but this time I'm gonna put the ressistors in the download cable. I figured you can take out the 22k and the 10k that soldered to it. But Whats the other 10k for. The one that soldered to the 1k and pin 8.

sorry for the quadrouple post. But the the edit button has a time limit. Iwas going through the code trying to fiigure out how to put in a 3 round burts when I saw that it goes.


Why does 2 high-lows. Also why is the pause different?

To put in 3 round burst would be something like this

From the picaxe manual.

Notes:
1) The 10k/22k resistors must be included for reliable operation.
DO NOT leave the serial in pin floating as THE PROGRAM WILL NOT RUN!

The two download resistors must be included on every PICAXE circuit (i.e. not
built into the cable). The serial input must never be left unconnected. If it is
left unconnected the serial input will ‘float’ high or low and will cause
unreliable operation, as the PICAXE chip will receive spurious floating signals
which it may interpret as a new download attempt.

Hope this help you Protolisk

I think it was for a matrix.





Ok thats almost it......the pause is different because it takes a little longer to get through the last part of the code.


Ok the burst code should be.


Burst:
do
low 4
pause 90
high 4
pause90
low 4
pause 90
high 4
pause90
low 4
pause 90
high4
pause 85.........


Thats a three shot burst. Although I shouldn't do this but the 3 round burst isn't enough if someone has on last stand. So since I know they're reading this ! LOL The burst needs to be four rounds. It'll pop the guy for sure and I'd rather not waste ammo with the g-3. But whatever.........





That is for the tact switch.....it's needed if you use a switch/pot whatever to turn on and off the chip.





Switch the wires around on the headphone jack first. It's easy to get confused wiring the jack.

Ok here's the 3 mode with the burst!


(it's setup for a matrix controller)

Setfreq m8
rapidoff:
Low 1
do
if pin3 = 1 then pause1
loop while pin3 = 0
goto rapidoff
pause1:
pause 500
goto rapidon1
rapidon1:
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 35 then Rapidfire1
If pin3 = 1 then pause2
goto rapidon1
Rapidfire1:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 130
High 4
Low 1
Pause 125
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 35
goto rapidon1
pause2:
pause 500
goto rapidon2
rapidon2:
Low 1
pause 500
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 35 then Rapidfire2
If pin3 = 1 then pause4
goto rapidon2
Rapidfire2:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 90
High 4
Low 1
Pause 85
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 35
goto rapidon2
pause4:
pause 500
goto rapidon3
rapidon3:
Low 1
Pause 200
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 35 then Rapidburst
If pin3 = 1 then pause5
goto rapidon3
Rapidburst:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 80
High 4
Low 1
Pause 80
High 1
Low 4
Pause 80
High 4
Low 1
Pause 80
High 1
Low 4
Pause 80
High 4
Low 1
Pause 80
High 1
Low 4
Pause 80
High 4
Low 1
Pause 2500
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 35
goto rapidon3
pause5:
pause 500
goto rapidoff

well i wired everything to the chip, soldered everything to the 360 board, wired up the headphone jack but everytime i try to programme the pic i get an error message saying its not connected or something, any help?

thx for the help it also says you can wire the serial pin to ground to stop it from floating. I guesssing they mean pin 7 and 2.

You said that a matrix version has lows instead of highs and < instead > but your code only has the <> changed.

I just joined because of this tut. Thanks. I am trying to get this to work for my son's xbox. I put it together and tried the controller out, but it does not rapid fire. I wired according to the instructions, the LED flashes like it should but the rapid fire does not function when I pull the trigger. Any ideas?

I noticed in the assembly that Line 8 says solder a wire to the 100k resistor from earlier, but I do not see where it was called out earlier, a 10k was called out earlier on Line 4. Could this be causing the issue?

By the way I have the newer controller if that makes a difference. I downloaded the new controller logic and uploaded it to a 08M. The logic is the first on posted, I see other logic posting but I figured I would go with the first one.

Thanks

just ignore the 100k its was just for extra protection but its not needed anymore.

now i have the exact same issue but i didnt put in an 100k and i still have this problem

OK. I got my chip yesterday and plugged it in. Everything worked great and was a complete success. I followed your guide 100percent and made my own download cable. Only thing I am not happy with is my LED placement but oh well. I can barely see it in the 3rd quadrant. I took a couple of videos of it in action if anyone wants to see it. I tried the code you had for left trigger rapid fire and when I use the right trigger it is fine but if I hit left trigger it does not rapid fire the left trigger it holds the left trigger like it is not modded and rapid fires the right trigger without me touching it. another touch of the tact switch turns it off again. Any ideas on what I might be doing wrong or how I could have it so that the triggers rapid fire separately?

Here are the videos for you guys:

Programming
3 Mode Rapid Fire

hey antman im in real need of your help, i quickly need to know why i keep getting an error code when i try and program the pic, and well it worked once and it programmed, but i wired everything up but it didnt rapid fire, im not sure what im doing wrong. and well seeing as i dont want to reprogram the chip after i had already once, i removed the 22k, the 10k soldered to it and the wires which were meant to be soldered to it. so the chip has pin 1 with 2 wires, one for the switch and the other for power, pin 2 has nothing soldered, pin 3 has r trigger point wire, pin 4 has 1k and 10k soldered together, then a wire between the 1k and 10k for the switch, pin 6 and 5 has nothing, pin 8 has the other end of the 10k soldered to it and a wire for ground. is this all correct? if it is then why wont it work?

thanks

Best thing you can do for me is show me a pic of everything you have got done so far. were all wires are going from the socket and all too. Also put everything back like Amatuer Modder has it cause his guide is 100percent perfect and works great.

EDIT: Pin 2 is part of the programing port so it needs to go to the middle solder point of your download port.

well maybe i have been wiring the headphone jack wrong, from this picture:


which wires would go the the far left pins and which would go to the right? because maybe ive mixed them up a bit, oh and also my ic socket broke somehow so ive been soldering directly to the 08m chip, and well ive really just messily soldered everything on right now as a test and i dont have a pic of how it was before, and well im sure ive wired everything according to the guide, or maybe not, i drew a schematic up before starting which i got pics of here:




my chip is wired exactly like that, one thing though, for the middle pin, does the wire have to be soldered directly to pin 2 or soldered to the point at which 22k and 10k and were soldered together?

i know i wrote power and ground both go to pin 8 but i know power goes to pin 1 and ground to pin 8

but the only thing that baffles me is that i got it to program once, i dunno how but it worked somehow, on my computer it showed "successful programming" but then when i tried programming t again to be sure it showed an error message, its really weird.

if you help me get this working you will be one of my favourite people lool, thats how badly i need to get this working

ok. on the middle pin the wire should be soldered to the point were the 22k and the 10k meet and join together. As far as the left and right pin I am not totally sure on it from your type of jack. the radio shack one was clear for me with these directions. what I would do it solder what you think should be left and right but leave the middle pin alone cause we know it is right. Then try it out and it it dont work switch the left wire on the jack for the right wire and see if it works. Also remember the chip needs power to work so you have to turn the controller on before trying to program it as well.

What controller are you using? Make sure your power wires are right and that you were soldering to the right spots on the controller. your diagram looks accurate from what I can tell but I cant see were they are soldered to on your controllers board.

I have same schematic as Nemesis and still can't get it to work. I am missing the jack, I figured I would keep as simple as possible. What I have been doing is popping the IC out of the holder and plugging into my PC interface board. It uploads fine. Says 160 lines uploaded. I take the IC out and put it back into the controller. The only indication I have is the led flashes like it should. The rapid fires does not function.

The controller has to be on so the chip is powered. If it still doesn't work then you could have the wires on the jack mixed up. Also you have to choose what chip you are programming in the options menu, so it has to be set for the 8m




Ok the ground is connected to the serial pin through a resistor. There is a diagram in the "getting started" manual page 5 section 1. Matrix is " b0 < 30" , CG is "b0 > 125"




Yeah there is no 100k. It is my first attempt so there are a few screw ups. I'm lost if the LED is lighting up the chip is reading the posistion of the trigger. But if it's blinking without pulling then you have the wrong code. If yours is the newer board then you need the code for the CG Board.




Ok I usually cut alot from the quote but this is staying! It is FRICKIN AWESOME that you posted videos. So everyone can see if you do it right it does work. I haven't really done anything with the dual trigger but the dual trigger should work......the code is from Vert and he said it works for HALO, but I have to work on it to troubleshot it. I am also working on a different program port which does away with the big ugly jack, just 3 small pin holes....

Make sure the wire from pin 3 is soldered to the middle pin on the controller board. Also make sure that you didn't solder 2 of them together. I don't know if I said this or not but it's always a good idea to check everything before you cover it in glue. I learned that the hard way. But since the sockets and resistors are cheap you might want to re-do it? The LED should only flash if you pull the trigger in the first mode if you're using the single mode. If it's flashing as soon as you turn on the chip then you have the wrong code programmed into the chip.


Also for the dual rapidfire a simple way to check to see if it works is in COD you can switch the triggers to a left hand setup. Otherwise if the dualmode is on and you try to aim down the sights it should stutter while aiming

I just uploaded the code from one of the pages with the 2 mode rapid fire and it works! So the wiring is correct.

However the original code for the CG does not work. Is there a revised one I am missing. The software is set for a 8M, does the freq matter? I have it set for 4Mhz. This is what I uploaded:

Setfreq m8
rapidoff:
Low 1
do
if pin3 = 1 then pause1
loop while pin3 = 0
goto rapidoff
pause1:
pause 1000
goto rapidon
rapidon:
Low 1
Pause 300
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 125 then Rapidfire1
If pin3 = 1 then pause2
goto rapidon
Rapidfire1:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 180
High 4
Low 1
Pause 175
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 > 125
goto rapidon
pause2:
pause 1000
goto rapidon2
rapidon2:
Low 1
Pause 200
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 125 then Rapidfire2
If pin3 = 1 then pause3
goto rapidon2
Rapidfire2:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 150
High 4
Low 1
Pause 145
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 > 125
goto rapidon2
pause3:
pause 1000
goto rapidon3
rapidon3:
Low 1
Pause 100
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 125 then Rapidfire3
If pin3 = 1 then pause4
goto rapidon3
pause4:
pause 1000
goto rapidoff
Rapidfire3:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 100
High 4
Low 1
Pause 95
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 > 125
goto rapidon3

END

Ok from what I understand the "setfreq m8" sets the code at 8mhz.....????? I upload with the settings at 4mhz and it works so I don't know for sure....

The original code I posted should work I don't know why not? But it may have been set to high for your controller or something? What post did you get the working code from so I can try to figure it out?

So in response to the other posts but for Antman most of all, me and my buddy just re-did his other controller which is a CG and the left trigger numbers are different than the right trigger. So I'm posting a simple code to help everyone figure out the numbers they need for their controllers. All you have to do is upload it and then it'll bring up a seperate window. The b1 column will tell you the left trigger numbers and b0 will tell the right.


Main:
Readadc 4, B0
Readadc 2, B1
Debug
Pause 1000
goto main

Once I get some numbers I can adjust the code accordingly and re-post it for ya. Or if you want to tackle it yourself look for the < or > in the code under the left trigger and change the numbers next to the < or > to something around the number you got from the de-bug code and the left trigger should work.

It is the one by Amatuer Modder on page 2. It is clunky but it works. My last posting with your programming had the lights working but no rapid. I like the idea of your three levels of rapid fire better if it works.

I just purchased a book online to better understand the logic. It has been years since I used basic. I appreciate the help with this, hope I can contribute soon.