Ok, here it is. The Picaxe Rapidfire Tutorial.................. Ok a little disclaimer.....Rumor has it if you get enough complaints you can get booted from Xbox Live for using a rapidfire controller. I have no idea why. I am gonna leave the LED, Program Port and button placement upto you since everyone has a preference, although I will post some pic showing my placement. Last but least credit where credit is do.....Bigmacattack and Vertinago are the 2 that have helped out the most
so this tut wouldn't be possible without them, thanks again guys!


Parts List:
1 Picaxe 8M chip
1 serial or usb program cable (both are available from "Sparkfun.com")

(Part numbers are Radio Shack numbers)
Torx T-8 security driver
Solderin Iron -part #64-2051(15 watt works best)
Solder -part #64-017E
30ga wire -part #278-501 = red (totally upto you on wire I used some old network cable
part #278-502 = white and some 4 conductor telephone wire since you can color
part #278-503 = blue code everything and make it alittle easier but it doesn't
Tact switch -part # 275-003 bend as easy)
Stereo jack -part # 274-0249
8 pin IC socket -part # 276-1995
Assorted LEDs -part #

Resistors
330 ohm -5pack part #271-1315
1k - 5pack part #271- 1321 (All of them are $1 each)
10k - 5pack part #271-1335
22k - 5pack part #271-1339
100k - 5pack part #271-1347

(a 1.8k is needed if you have the matrix controller and since Radio shack doesn't sell it in any other way then in a 500pack but it does have all the resistors needed part-# 271-312 at $13 you'll also need a transistor if you have the matrix -----transistors - part #276-1617)



Ok 1st step is taking your socket and flipping it upside down you want the notch towards the top
with it upside down pin 8 will be the top left pin, 7 will be the one below 8 and so on and pin 1 will be the top right pin, pin 2 will be below that one and so on...... pay close attention to which pin is which. Best thing to also do is tin all of the pins on the socket.

2nd step:
You want to get a 1k , 22k and a 330 ohm resistor. then cut one end of each so it's just alittle shorter then the pin on the socket. Then solder the 1k to pin 4 , then the 22k to pin 2 and then
the 330 ohm to pin 6. (seePic1)

3rd step:
Carefully bend the 1k and 330ohm resistor down towards the middle with the ends going towards the top of the chip. Then bend the 22k to the outside and the end towards the bottom. (see Pic2)

4th step:
You want to bend the ends of the 1k and 330ohm up (same direction as the pins on the socket see pic3)Now take a 10k and bend one end like was done with the 1k and 330. (seePic3)
Now is when some creative bending comes into play......the 10k is soldered to the 1k and then over and around to pin 8 on the socket (refer back to pic 3).

5th step:
Once everything is soldered you want to snip down everything (seePic4)

6th step:
Ok take another 10k and bend on end then solder to the 22k (seePic5) then wrap the other end around the socket and solder to the other 10k going to pin 8 (see Pic6)
(in pic 5 you can see I put a dab of hot glue on the 1k and 300 ohm to hold everything in place to help from something making contact to something it shouldn't be.)

7th step:
The wiring is upto you but we'll use the colors I used to help things along , also to make sure you've got enough wire to work with cut them about 6-7 inches long it might see too long but when you start winding up, around and through things it helps.So you want 3 wires to goto ground (seePic7) I used brown,black and green/white, twisted them together and tinned them then cut them down. Then you need 2 wires for power, I used red and blue twisted and tinned them also. Just for easier soldering (if you don't allready know) is to tin the wires as you go. The pictures show what colors I used for what....

8th step:
Ok solder the 2 wires(blue and red) to pin1 and a wire(blue/white) to the 1k and 100k that was soldered togeher earlier (see Pic8)

9th step:
Solder the 3 wires used for ground (black,brown,green/white) to pin8 (seePic9)

10th step:
Then solder a wire(green) to the 330ohm (see Pic10)

11th step:
Another wire(orange/white) to pin 7 (see Pic11)

12th step:
Another wire(brown/white) to the 22k that was soldered to pin 2 earlier (seePic12 )

13th step:
Then another wire(yellow) to pin 3 (seePic13)

14th step:
Ok here's where you decide on dual trigger or single trigger???
If you're going with a single then you can either bend over pin 5 (seePic14)
or simply snip off pin 5?? But if you want dual just solder a wire(orange) to pin 5.(seePic15)

15th step:
Ok this is the tricky part. But unless you used a color coded wire setup you might want to mark the wires with a piece of masking tape and write what each wire goes to before you do this step. Use some hot glue to cover the solder joints and to hold the wires so the don't break off easily. The trick is to wet your fingers and mold the glue around everything keeping the whole thing as small as possible (seePic16) and (Pic17) or else you'll run into problems if you want to keep your rumble motors. If it's too big it won't fit anywhere besides where the motors go. Where ya want it to go is the same spot console customs shows in their tut.


Step 16 is for matrix controller only:
Ok you need a transistor and a 1.8k resistor. The 1.8k resistor gets soldered to the center post(base) on the transistor. what ya wanna do is cut down one end of the 1.8k to about the same length as the ones for the IC socket then center leg of the transistor should be the same length.
Solder the two together, then you want to trim it down to the same length as the other legs. Then solder the 1.8k leg to the bottom of the trigger pot and the collector to the top of the pot and the ground for the chip gets soldered to the emmiter leg. (seePic18)



OK...........I'd suggest taking a break if you haven't allready......

Now like I said in the beginning button,LED and program port is all upto you.....But I'll now goto where and what all the wires goto.

Power and ground:
see Pic19 for Matrix controller and Pic20 for the CG controller

Trigger wire:
The wire from pin 3 goes to the center post of the right trigger pot (refer to power and ground pics)
(Dual: the wire from pin 5 goes t the center post of the left trigger pot)

LED:
One of the wires soldered to pin 8 goes to the negetive leg of the LED (shorter leg)
Then the wire that was soldered to the 330ohm goes to the positive leg of the LED (longer leg)


Switch/push button:
The wire from the 1k that goes to pin 4 goes to one side
One of the wires from pin 1 goes to the other
(if you're using the tact switch each side of the switch has a neg and pos)

Program port:
Ok if you're using the stereo jacks I listed then when your holding it upside down with the one leg to the right then the one to the left goes to one of the wires from pin 8
The one in the middle the wire from pin2 and the one sticking out the right side gets the wire from pin 7 (The picaxe manual explains the programming port wiring in a schematic)


Picaxe Programming Editor Software

Ok now I have code for a 3mode rapid fire for The CG and Matrix controllers:

CG controller:
Setfreq m8
rapidoff:
Low 1
do
if pin3 = 1 then pause1
loop while pin3 = 0
goto rapidoff
pause1:
pause 1000
goto rapidon
rapidon:
Low 1
Pause 300
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 125 then Rapidfire1
If pin3 = 1 then pause2
goto rapidon
Rapidfire1:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 180
High 4
Low 1
Pause 175
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 > 125
goto rapidon
pause2:
pause 1000
goto rapidon2
rapidon2:
Low 1
Pause 200
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 125 then Rapidfire2
If pin3 = 1 then pause3
goto rapidon2
Rapidfire2:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 150
High 4
Low 1
Pause 145
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 > 125
goto rapidon2
pause3:
pause 1000
goto rapidon3
rapidon3:
Low 1
Pause 100
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 125 then Rapidfire3
If pin3 = 1 then pause4
goto rapidon3
pause4:
pause 1000
goto rapidoff
Rapidfire3:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 100
High 4
Low 1
Pause 95
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 > 125
goto rapidon3

END



Matrix:
Setfreq m8
rapidoff:
Low 1
do
if pin3 = 1 then pause1
loop while pin3 = 0
goto rapidoff
pause1:
pause 1000
goto rapidon
rapidon:
Low 1
Pause 300
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 30 then Rapidfire1
If pin3 = 1 then pause2
goto rapidon
Rapidfire1:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 180
High 4
Low 1
Pause 175
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 30
goto rapidon
pause2:
pause 1000
goto rapidon2
rapidon2:
Low 1
Pause 200
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 30 then Rapidfire2
If pin3 = 1 then pause3
goto rapidon2
Rapidfire2:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 130
High 4
Low 1
Pause 125
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 30
goto rapidon2
pause3:
pause 1000
goto rapidon3
rapidon3:
Low 1
Pause 100
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 30 then Rapidfire3
If pin3 = 1 then pause4
goto rapidon3
pause4:
pause 1000
goto rapidoff
Rapidfire3:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 75
High 4
Low 1
Pause 70
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 30
goto rapidon3

END


So I hope this has worked for ya, I'll be watching for any questions that ya post and I'm sure Vertagino and Bigmacattack will be watching also and if I can't help hopefully they or someone can?

Is there anyway you can embed those photos cause its annoying having to click for all the steps. Also is this the readac ver? And whats the 330ohm for I didn't fully read it but Verts instructions on the readac ver didn't have a 330.

I tried embedding but I couldn't get it to work...... the 330 is for the LED and yes it is the readadc version
Vert also said something about a tie down or tie up resistor but I didn't include it because everything works fine without it. He also said it was more of an insurance policy to gaurd against any false readings.


Also the part # for the assortment of LED's is #276-1622

Ok I ned to apologize to for the mis-spelled names it's "Vertigonix" not "Vertagino"......and "Biggmacattack" with 2 "G's" not one ..........sorry guys!

Nice job AM. Kudo's to you. Someone needed to do this.

Thanks!

Oh ok is this the post 179# version or is this a better ver?

The code is a new version....it's actually loosely based on Verts on/off but I don't remember from what post. This one lets you have the three different codes and the ability to turn off the chip.

I'd love to see some pictures.



because it is cheating

Cool I think I'll make this version then.



Nobody respond to any of these posts because if we do it will end up with this thread locked because there'll be too much flaming. So from now on ignore these type of posts on this thread.

Also I think you should explain what the mod does eg. Is it using the triggers?, can you turn it off? Whats the LED for? things like that so people know exactly what they're doing.

It does use the triggers , you can turn it off with the use of program code and a simple button, the led is used to indicate when the chip is on and which code is being used.

Ok I have some pics of button and jack placement. Since I did the 555 timer mod I had the big button and pot mounted so since I swapped out the 555 for the picaxe I reused the button instead of a tact switch. I have just ordered a couple new controller shells and some tact switches so I'll be changing some things around.

This pic is of my "test dummy" controller. The program jack has to have the corners rounded a bit to fit but you can also get the hole perfect if you look for the little circle on the inside of the controller left over from the molding process. Once I had the jack in a put in the led.

This pic is of the button I use to turn on and off the chip, it's also used to switch through the codes. Next to the button is the old pot from the 555 mod.

This last pic is of my other controller that I did after the blue one and discovered that the jack would fit if I took out the old pot.

Cool nice pics. So do we need a toggle switch or can it be like a tac switch which only acticvates when you push down? Cause tac switches are a lot smaller.

You can use the tact switch, the way the code is written there is an off mode. So the tact switch sends a pulse to the chip then in turn switches through the codes. And since it's smaller it'll fit just about anywhere.
Here is a couple of pics of one place I thought of, you have trim some plastic and get the hole centered just right but it'll fit. Tact 1, Tact 2

Thats really cool thx.

so the diff between this and post 179# is that you can use a tact switch but is that all?

I'm not sure what ya mean but I'm gonna take a stab at it. Ok my post is for something more along the lines of the 3 mode rapidfire from youtube. Vert came up with a code to use along with an existing controller button. Then we kind of ran with the whole button idea. So it's pretty much the same just the code is different. My code is setup for a single trigger, three different rates of fire and an off. The code can be modified to do the same thing but with dual triggers. Step 14 in my tut is about the dual or single setup.
If you want a dual setup I can modify the code for ya. Just let me know what controller it's for?

Ok let me guesss your Australian otherwise you couldn't of replied so fast.

Yeah I think I'll be using duel rapid fire on a CG controller. Also where does the 100k go? If it is duel wont you neeed 2 switches one to turn on one side and on to turn on the other or even 3, 1 for speed and 2 for triggers?

Nope I'm from Ohio in the good old USA. Just unemployed at the moment with not much else to do. lol
Ok, according to Vert you should have the 100k going from the trigger pin to ground on the CG. It's supposed to be extra insurance to keep the adc readings accurate. The CG I did for my buddy doesn't have them and he hasn't had any problems. I don't have them on my Matrix and don't have any problems either.

As far as the buttons/switches you just need one since the chip reads the posistion of the trigger and then the code kicks the rapidfire on once the trigger gets to a certain point. But it does work it's actually kind of cool how it does.

Oh ok lol.

What if you were playing cod4 so you only wanted the right trigger but then went to play halo 3 and started dueal weilding? How would choose trigger to have on? Would it still be possible to use on button. Maybe like hold it for a few seconds to enable the right trigger and if you hold it for longer it enables both then even longer only left?

Ok, you could have just 2 codes programmed. The first code be for COD and the next could be for halo
or do the first for cod, second for a single trigger halo and the 3rd for dual trigger halo. All it takes is a simple tap of the button to switch. With mine I have it set up with just the single with 3 different rates of fire codes. The LED flashes kinda slow for the first one then a little faster for the 2nd and even faster for the 3rd.
Something like this.........

Setfreq m8
rapidoff:
Low 1
do
if pin3 = 1 then pause1
loop while pin3 = 0
goto rapidoff
pause1:
pause 1000
goto COD4
COD4:
Low 1
Pause 300
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 30 then Rapidfire1
If pin3 = 1 then pause2
goto COD4
Rapidfire1:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 180
High 4
Low 1
Pause 175
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 30
goto COD4
pause2:
pause 1000
goto Halo1
Halo1:
Low 1
Pause 200
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 30 then Rapidfire2
If pin3 = 1 then pause3
goto Halo1
Rapidfire2:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 130
High 4
Low 1
Pause 125
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 30
goto Halo1
pause3:
pause 1000
goto HaloDual
HaloDual:
Low 1
Pause 100
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
Readadc 2,b1
If b0 < 30 then Rightrigger
If b1 < 30 then Leftrigger
If pin3 = 1 then pause4
goto HaloDual
pause4:
pause 1000
goto rapidoff
Rightrigger:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 75
High 4
Low 1
Pause 70
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Readadc 2, b1
If b0 < 30 and b1 < 30 then dualwield
Loop while b0 < 30
goto HaloDual
Leftrigger:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 75
High 4
Low 1
Pause 70
b1=b1 and %00000000
Let dirs=b1
Readadc 2, b1
Readadc 4, b0
If b0 < 30 and b1 < 30 then dualwield
Loop while b1 < 30
goto HaloDual
dualwield:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Low 2
Pause 20
High 4
High 2
Pause 26
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Readadc 2, b1
Loop while b0 < 30 and b1 < 30
goto HaloDual

Oh ok cool thanks for the help.

Here is a code update for COD4 with 2 mode fire rate with led


setfreq m8
Main:
Let b4 = 0
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Low 1
do
if pin3 = 1 then countup
loop while pin3 = 0
goto Main

Countup:
for b3 = 1 to 3
pause 500
if pin3 = 0 then exitloop
pause 500
next b3
High 1
pause 1000
do
loop until pin3 = 0
if b4 = 1 then main
if b4 = 0 then rapidon
goto countup

exitloop:
if b4 = 0 then main
if b4 = 1 then rapidon

rapidon:
Let b4 = 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 80 then rightrigger
If pin3 = 1 then rapidon2
Low 1
goto rapidon

Rightrigger:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 20
High 4
Pause 26
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0

Loop while b0 > 80
goto rapidon

rapidon2:
do
loop while pin3 = 1
if b4 = 0 then rapidon2a

rapidon2a:
high 1
Pause 20
Let b4 = 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 80 then rightrigger2
If pin3 = 1 then countup
Low 1
Pause 60
goto rapidon2a

Rightrigger2:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 110
High 4
Pause 250
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0

Loop while b0 > 80
goto rapidon2

Ok there are a few problems with the updated code.. The first being you don't need the countup code the second being there is nothing there to deal with "switch bounce" the pauses in the code I did are to compensate for the switch bounce.

Did you even run the code in the program editor?
Or even in your controller..??? To test it?

Run the code. The reason I like the best is because you once you turn the system on. You can switch between the 2 modes without having to turn the chip off. The countup is so you don’t turn the chip on when you don’t want it.

Switch bounce?? Yes you need to take a closer look at the code. The countup is 3 secs to turn the system on. Then you’re in mode one. Then if you push the button again and you can hold it forever or just push it.
And it will go to mode 2 and will not skip if you hold it to long like yours. Then if you like to go back to mode 1 you just push the button again or if you like the chips to turn off you hold it for 3 secs.

Sorry if I ran on, But don’t says there’s a problems if there’s not.

Hey I posted that code back in the other picaxe topic so I know how it works.

No, VERTIGONIX post the code that mine is based off of....

Give credit where credit is due.

Vert originally posted the "countup" code. Then I took that and took out the dual trigger and changed a few things around. He said is was setup to use an existing button not an extra button so you don't need the countup. What you posted is basically my modified code that was Verts to begin with. All you did was take out the third rate of fire. So if you wanna throw stones about who should give who credit try reading the first part of this post. And I noticed you said nothing about credit to Vert when you first posted......... if you don't wanna play fair don't post in my topic please.

BTW....it'd be post #346 -page 24....... then try reading post #347 also........They're in the Xbox360 Picaxe Rapid Fire Controller topic......

OWNAGE Go Amatuer Modder

this is a very well written guide and I believe I may be doing this mod myself. Is this the same mod that evilcontrollers has? here is the link: http://evilcontrollers.com/home, Is it possible to set it up like this? I notice they use the led in the controller to show when the mod is on and off, is it possible to do this the same way with this mod? Also I am not good with programing but good with soldering, Will I be able to program this easily? Very nice mod though! Thank you for sharing this.

Another couple of questions for ya. Is the Torx T-8 security driver available at Radio Shack like it says in your parts list or is their a place i will need to order this from? Also on http://evilcontrollers.com/home the buttons they use look like they are flush with the controller, Anyone happen to have one of these and can tell me were I can find buttons like these?

ok what I was thinking is, For the LED I am going to try and mount a separate LED for this mod near the 4th quadrant of the controllers LED so I don't have another LED some were else on the controller. I am going to get all of the parts as soon as I can. Is the T8 Security Torx available at radio shack? I dont see it on their site. If it's not were can I get it? Thanks guys.

What all would be involved if you wanted to not use the left button as rapid fire but instead wanted to used that button to do rapid reloading of the weapon?

Instead of connecting this left rapid button to the left trigger, could you just connect it to the button that performs the reload function and still keep the same code on the picaxe chip ???

Thanks!

Ok now you're getting into the more complicated mods. I have only done the rapid fire mod for what you're talking about you'd probably need a 14m pic chip and have to start solder to points on the controller board. I'm not really up to that challenge........atleast not yet anyway.

Ok first off the prices these places are charging for this stuff is just plain NUTS!!!! Second, the torx t-8 is not available at RS you're gonna have to find it someplace online or at a specialty tool shop. The one I used my buddy had and doesn't remember where he got it, sorry. The buttons you're looking for are a 7mm tall tact switch I found some at Mouser Electronics for about 20 cents a piece plus shipping so I was stupid and ordered like 50 just to make it worth the shipping cost. The part number is #688-SKHHQV. As far as the indicator being one of the LEDs in the quadrant ring.......you might be able to solder the wires to either side of the micro LED in the quadrant but you might have to break the circuit traces but that would also make the fourth light only functioning for the rapid fire. But I never have that many controllers going at one time so I'm kind considering doing that it is really cool. I just completed another mod and I stuck the LED in the middle of the guide button, it was a pain in the behind but it works. There is a post in here for that same mod with the LED for the guide button. If you want to get into the fast reload and all that you'll need to step up to a 14m picaxe chip since the 8m doesn't have enough inputs and outputs for much more then a rapidfire setup. Unless you want to not use the LED indicator and only one trigger that should free up enough for the fast reload??

Hey guys! I just wanted to pop in and say a few things.

First, Thanks for the cred AM. I am definitely appreciative of acknowledgement of my work.

Second, and this goes out to AM and CD. The work that has been done in 360 Picaxe Rapid Fire Controller [u] is a collective effort of a lot of people. Most of the code and schematics are untested and rough at best based on theory and practice. It takes people like AM and TECHunter to actually build the stuff and make the changes needed to make it actually work. I have done it to one of my controllers and only for Halo. So I thank you AM for taking the challenge on and making it work for you. I say "making it work for you" because everyone has their own opinion on how it should or suppose to work. This is free knowledge we are offering and expect nothing in return except to here that you did it and it worked.

So help each and stop wasting forum space and your time on petty things.

Thanks,
VERT

Another Great Post By Vert.

Very true..... and well said. I don't think any of us working individually on this project could have made the headway we made as a team.

ok. I ordered my parts today and I did not order the download cable. How would I make one by getting some parts from Radio Shack? Also I looked at the program to program the picaxe chip and noticed it looks for bin or hex files. how do I make the code given here at the beginning, program with that format? And of couse always a last question. I have a Matrix contoller so I will need to get the 1.8 resistor mentioned. Is there any other alternative with the same results that would be cheaper than buying the whole lot of resistors (maybe putting 2 together or somethin)? Sorry for all the questions but want to make sure I get it all right the first time.


BTW: Security Torx was the only thing making me wait so long and tonight my wife realized the center piece comes out easily in those screws. I had it apart in a minute after seeing that. lol!

Okay, Looking into it further I looked at the 500-Piece 1/4-Watt Carbon-Film Resistor Assortment and it may have all I need in that 1 package. I saw what looks like all of them I need but if you look at the description on Radio Shacks website it shows for example, it has "1, 10, 100, 120, 150, 220, 330, 470, 560, 1.5k, 2.2k, 3.3k, 4.7k, 15k, 22k, 220k, 470k, 1MEG, 10MEG resistors (10 each)" does this mean the 10 it has is the 10k I am needing as well?

wasn't able to edit last post but a little more searching and here is the link to make your own serial cable: http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/docs/AXE025.PDF and http://dave.fraildream.net/picaxe/pxhwser.shtmlmight be useful to all that wanna make their own.

Hi, I was wondering if somebody could help me out with a couple of things. Firstly, why does the installation between this mod and this mod differ so much? Why such a big difference in the amount and diversity of resistors? Would it be possible to install the picaxe 8m microcontroller in the fashion of the tutorial I gave a link to? Thats my biggest question.

The other question is, I'm just learning how to write code. Could someone (preferably the creator of the code) please give me a rough walk-through as to why certain numbers were used (personal preference, requirements etc.). Thanks for all your help.

I'm thinking its also possible to build your own usb programming cable, and it'd probably be a lot easier. Just cross usb (male) and a stereo jack; colour for colour. Then, you could install the virtual com port yourself via this website. But I haven't tried it just yet...still waiting on the microcontroller and socket. Any input is appreciated. Speaking of socket, I can plug the stereo into the socket right?

I don't know if it would be possible to build a USB cable but it is possible to build your own Serial cable. The socket that you put the PIC in does not have a headphone jack on it directly you have to set all of that up yourself. As far as the resistors I am not sure but I know this mod looks slick and I am planning on following it exactly to figure it all out. I plan to get an LED and place it around the 4th quadrant light on the controller so I still have the controller functioning LED and my LED will be separate. Just need to find out if those resistors are the same or not in that one package to make sure I dont buy more than needed or so I buy what I need. I looked through the whole other picaxe thread and saw this guide at the end of it and I have to say I really appreciate all the work you guys put into this and hope that I can help contribute in some way.

Also you metioned something about the fast reload before. If you plan to do only 1 trigger for rapid fire would it be possible to keep the LED and have fast reload for cod4 with rapid fire? using the Picaxe 8m? You guys rock great guide AM! Also would love to see more of your final product inside and out sometime.

Damn! I thought I was getting off easy lol. I was under the impression the socket is needed to program the microcontroller. Do you know of a tut, or some other information about making that? I have the software, a USB programming cable (that works to the best of my knowledge...I just have to install the proper driver for it--because you can program the picaxe microcontroller with USB to headphone jack according to the manual and some other sources.) The picaxe microcontrollers and sockets are on their way. What do i need to program this little bastard lol. Help is appreciated.

This guide is actually telling you in the parts and instructions on how to make it. Anyone know yet if that resistor kit from radio shack has all the resistors I need and if I should just get that?

HOLY SHIZZZNITS! lol Ok the Fast re-load for COD.... I don't see how the hell it works unless it's actually set-up as like a macro button or something, if you watch close on some of the videos it looks like the the time jumps a bit so I'm wondering if it's actually for real or not....who knows? But most likely you'd have to go for the bigger chip.

For the resistors...the $15 pack does have all of the ones you need including the 1.8k which is about the only one they don't sell in a 5pack , go figure. There are 5 each of some and 10 each of the rest.

Oh and another pointer I used an after market controller shell to experiment with, decal girl.com has them for like $15 so if you don't want to mess up the MS shell.

The USB idea won't work the actual programming cable has a chip and I think some resistors actually on the USB plug. My buddy wanted to do the same thing......

The resistors I used were per the Picaxe manual and after 5 being done now , 4 matrix and 1 CG and so far they're working great.

The other tut mentioned doesn't give you the ability to re-program the chip or tweak the code to your controller specs or you preferences since everyone and every controller is different.

With the program code just cut and paste......just open a new file in the program editor and you're set it saves it as a ".bas" Between the ones I made up and others from Bigmac and Vert there are plenty of codes to choose from just let us know what ya want to do?

I also plan on taking a few pics and posting them since I have done a few more things now. Like the tact switch at the top opposite the link button and the hidden LED in the guide button....

Thank you AM. I Look forward to your pics, I will post pics of mine when I complete it too.

I Got it! Here is the fast reload for COD4.. It is an exploit! When you see the clip almost in the gun hit "Y,Y" quickly http://tutorialized.tv/component/seyret/?t...link&id=331 That is it in action! Can we use this somehow in the mod?

It would suck if they fixed this exploit in a patch and all these people that bought the special controller from evilcontrollers.com would have a worthless non programmable button.

Cool! But yeah that would suck if it's been patched.....I guess I'll have to try it? But in order for it to work you would have to go with like the 14m chip since you'll need more outputs then the one extra you'd have with the 8m. So you'd need 2 outputs, one to goto the "Y" and one to the "X" buttons along with another input for the tact/push button. Not to mention the skill needed to carefully scrape the spots on the controller board to get the wires connected to the button contacts. If you can do that then the code would be pretty easy. The hardest part of the code would be getting the timing down. Something like........

If pin?=1 then goto reload
reload:
High?-pulse out to whatever pin selected for "X" button
pause?-something short
low?-the pin for "X" off
pause?-time it takes to get clip close enough to gun
High?-whatever pin selected for "Y"
low?-"Y" off
pause?-short pause
High?-whatever pin selected for "Y"
low?"Y" off

Something like that.........???
I've got a 14m but just haven't felt confident enough to try scraping and soldering the board contacts since if you screw it up the controller is pretty much toast....

Well actually it seems like a useless mod to me for the rapid fire. Sounds like a scheme to get more money for that mod because it is pretty much the same thing as pressing YY to me. I am going to stick with just rapid fire.