when i come out of a game by pressing the guide button and then the Y the game exits but i loose video i can still hear the sound but the video is compleatly black . has anyone else had this and do you have any suggestions on how to fix it please

Damn use the search dude, this has literally been answered hundreds of times...
Do the X-Clamp replacement if you are out of warranty

i have done the xclamp , this is one out of many i have done thought somone could point in in the direction of what causes this exact fault maybe a dry joint somwhere etc

any how many thanks for the attitude

Will be scaler chip related then in order to fix it you will have to heatgun the area from the (H)ANA chip to the GPU.
Follow the intructions in my heagunning tutorial for that...

ok just noticed that in your tutorial i have a heat gun here but i think its a bit to powerful i will have to see if any mates got one as regaurds to the scaler fault does this clear most e74 fults also , reflowing the solder that is . also wher i work there is a surface mount pick and place machine with oven at the end of it what component would i have to remove to send the pcb through


many thanks for reply though

To reflow it in there you would have to remove all buttons, connectors, large capacitors and the sensor that detects if the 360 is in vertical or horizontal position(is the thing near the eject button, it makes a noise when you shake the 360)

Just some general knowledge.
0022 is a bridged solder joint in this area and E74(1022) is a cold solder joint...

If there are anymore components that might melt/blow in there dont hesitate to correct me...

no that seems like way to much trouble removing all of that off a pcb will have a go at heatgunning if i can get hold of one tomorrow

thanks again

ok i heatgunned this pcb today looked nice you could see all of the solder turn to liquid ( got a large magnifying glass on my work station ) none of the caps expanded , was very carful lots of insulation ( very thick foil backed with bubble wrap . think its for pipe lagging ) . however upon putting it back together i had a 3 rrod and a code of 020 no listing for that fault so i took it back apart had a play around with different size and types of washer and now all i am getting is a fault code 010 power supplie . i think i need to give up on this one . first one to beat me in about 30

hmmm
There is something wrong with your error codes.
Do you mean 0020?
This one is a bridged solder joint and occurs when you overtighten the screws, just loosen them a bit.
0010 is pretty rare so I guess you mean 0001 which is indeed a power problem with the main power lin(missing capacitor or a short circuit).
Since you tried different washers I assume the GPU heatsink is flexing too much and shorting out which happens when you dont use enough washers.
Make sure you are either using 2 washers with a thickness of 1mm or 1 washer with 2mm thickness

oyep my bad sorry it was 001 i think it may be shorting because the first time i bolted back together when i got the 0020 it wqas in a pcb rack where noy im getting the 0001 it is in the chassis si i guess somthing is touching

definatly 0020 not over tighned maybee this board is shafted i thought it might of bee the way i heatgunned it but i have also recently heatgunned two other boards with thw 0102 fault and they now work fine

First of all learn to spell and take your time to create a proper reply because this is hard to read and you said 001 again which is obviously nothing!!!


Same here
0020 can be "over tightened", in general it is a bridged solder ball in the CPU/GPU/RAM area....

Also give some more information which X-Clamp Fix you used how many washers at all, where, if you drilled holes etc...

ok my gramma does suck though and my wireless keyboard drops letters from time to time . . Can a bridged solder ball be corrected ? the fault code i was refering to earlier in the thread was 0001 but i was only getting it whilst the pcb was in the chassis so i removed it and put the pcb in one of the pcb racks i have and i keep getting the 0020 code

heatgunning meathod used is vey much the same as yours but i use different materials to isolate the caps , instead of the foil plastic you use i use what we call pipe lagging . its to insulate pipes from freezing etc it is made up of a thickish foil on one side and bubble wrap on the other


the xclamp meathod i use involves two washers the same size one thin washer and one fiber washer a m5 x 12mm screw and a very good quality siver thermal paste correctly applied ( not to much )

i drill the chassis from the outside to take the screw

i place all 8 screws in place on the outside of the chassis and tape them to secure them

i then place the two same size washers on the screws inside the chassis ( the are around 2 tenths of a mm lower than the original pcb resting points , very little flex for the pcb )

i then place the pcb on top of the screws and washers

i then place the very thin metal washer om the screww and the fiber one on top ( they are the same hight as the top of the chips maybee a tiny bit over but when screwd down and compressed no flex is taking place )

this is it and i have done between 30 - 40 in 9 months and havent had one come back yet , i hope i have provided the info you need

some pics of work and my box

so has anyone ever cleared a code 0020 or is it screwed

Fixed a couple of these, give my credit card method a try(link in signature).
Play around with tightnesses of the screws, start with loose screws then keep tightening them until they are pretty snug.
For how long did you heatgun it by the way and what did you concentrate on?
Did you do the bottom and top and did you let it cool down properly?

In general 0020 is a bridged solder joint under CPU/GPU or RAM, often happens when you tighten the screws too much. And it can also occur if this certain area isnt powered properly,( missing capacitor or so)

definatly not a tightening issue think im going to sell this mobo with the dvd drive mobo on flea bay , or just keep it for donors . i heatgunned it as with all of my pcbs for 5 and 1/2 minutes and did so around the cpu gpu ram and surrounding area

The solderballs will be too bridged then probably some have like become a big one or so.
Just make sure you put it in the description that a repair was already attempted..

If you get an instant ROD (i.e. no delay after turning on, push the button and it's immediately red lights) then you have a short beneath the GPU or lifted part of the GPU off the solder points. it's pretty much impossible to fix this, short of removing the GPU completely and reballing it with the proper devices.

You always get an instant ROD if the secondary error code is 0020 had this one for various reasons already and it always showed up at the same time...

I really don't think 0020 is a bridged solder joint, if it was, it would pretty much impossible to fix without reballing the chip that was causing the area. Also, the system on it's own won't ever get anywhere nearly hot enough to reflow the solder to begin with. The only way you could get a bridged joint would be from a bad reflow, or it was "born that way", though I'm sure each system is power cycled and tested before it's placed in the box and shipped.

I had a few 360s that make me come to this result.
One of the 360s I am talking about is one that I bought cheaply on ebay, the GPU was flatly pressed on the mainboard and was shorting out completely, it had 0020.
Another one I bought on Ebay had 0102, so I did the X-Clamp replacement and got rid of it, however it showed 0020 afterwards(0102 overrides 0020 since the number is higher), so I loosened the screws a bit because it sometimes happens when you over tighten them...
I couldnt get rid of the 0020 so I checked the mainboard and found 2 of the bottom RAM out of which the solder leaked by the look from the side.
They were completely flat as well...
And I could manage to get the error a few times when I was searching for a 3.3V source for the 9V mod, when you draw power from the regulator that powers the GPU and RAM you get it.
Missing capacitors under the GPU can also cause it.

The fact that solder balls are completely shorting out sounds pretty weird imo as well the only thing I could think off is that they move around/ crack when you tighten the screws too much and make them short out like that.
It also doesnt make much sense that you can often get rid of it by reflowing the GPU/RAM.
Someone posted a quite interesting thread that somehow didnt catch too many eyes but the guy had a quite nice theory that would actually explain this.

He was talking about a phenomenon called "Tin whiskers" it is like that solder can kind of get little antennas that can grow up to a length of 1mm per year and shorten out other stuff if they get in contact with them.
If you regard that the solderballs under the GPU are like a lot smaller than 1mm this actually makes a lot of sense since if this is the case they can short stuff out within less than a year.
When you reflow the chip/ take it under pressure/ overheat it you break these little antennas and the solderballs are disconnected and get back its original form and are no longer shorting out.
Here is some more information on this phenomenon http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin_whiskers

It sounds pretty far fetched to me as well but it is an addition to the X-Clamp theory that explains this certain issue very well imo.

On the wikipedia article it also says that "mechanically induced stresses" and "thermally induced stresses" support the growth of these tin whiskers which obviously is the case for the solderballs under the main chips of the 360
And it is mainly lead free solder that is effected by it which is also the case here.

I read about the tin whiskers, and it's a pretty interesting idea. I just think that 0020 is more of a generic error, as is 0102, etc. It's an error related to a specific component, but it's not precise in telling you what exactly is causing the error, whether the problematic area has a short, bridged joint, cold solder joint, etc. It would be very nice if Microsoft (or a sneaky, sneaky person) would get the fact sheets for all of the error codes, since obviously the companies that Microsoft hires for repairs have to know what they need to fix.