No probs, glad to be of help on first day as a member!
I have a parts list and diagram for building the max232 if anyone needs it

nobody answer

can i use data cabel from Siemens S25/C35/S35 ??


http://jenius3000.narod.ru/cable/datacab.jpg
http://www.shema.org.ua/index.php?name=New...cle&sid=644

yes please

Yes please, would appreciate this also.

Anyone needing the above (max232 stuff) pm me with with email or messenger details as i cant upload it to the forum

You're better making a max233 as you don't need to use capacitors as they are already in the ic:



All you need is
1- max233a ic
2- db9 female connector
3- some wire

Can i use this adapter?

http://cgi.ebay.com/RS232-TTL-Convertor-Ad...id=p3286.c0.m14

This is great! Of course, im not that excellent at soldering yet, so I don't know if i'll attempt this or not.

For those wanting a tutorial this is the best I can find so far, it covers everything.

Liteon Tutorial

Beware this tutorial is translated from the original french.

I don't think so, I thought it had to a be a RS3232, I don't really know though.



Really? You don't have to be good at soldering to do this. Or so it seems, I am going to tackle it, don't have the parts or drive in front of me but I will soon and I am sure I can do it. Or maybe I just consider "good" RDC skill so not being that good, you still have skill. Maybe you stink, I don't know.

that adapter will work fine, you can either use the MAX232 or MAX3232 chips or any equivalent TTL converter. only difference between MAX232 and MAX3232 is the 3232 was made to work at 3.3v although the 232 will do the same it was designed to work at 5v

Do I solder 3.3v wire to v5 shown on the image?

Yes

How do I connect this adapter to my pc?

Can you use the connectivity kit version 1 for this?

Serial port.

Can someone clarify the following for me?

1-"You must power on PC without sata cable connected to drive."
So therefore boot LiteOn Drive in the xbox360 with both the SATA and other Connector attached to it?

2-"You must poweron the drive with tray half opened and eject switch in open state."
How exatcly do I power-on the drive so the tray is half way opened and the eject switch is in open state?

3-Can this be done under windows, or will I have to create a bootable so I'm in pure DOS mode?

Awesome! Thanks a lot!

can anybody tell me which pins need connecting from 360 board to drive to dump the firmware?
im building a rs233 with spare drive connector to save soldering wires onto drive.

Here is a link to an English tutorial.
NOT TRANSLATED

http://www.turboupload.com/download/G03sXE...SpoofLiteOn.pdf

Is there a tutorial without using the connectivity kit?

It says to open the drawer halfway with a paperclip, but when i turn my 360 on the drive closes itself again. When i open it halfway with a paperclip when the power is on the drive knows i eject it and so it wont work.

Can anyone confirm for me that if i solder 2 bits of kynar wire from the bottom 2 solder points on the liteon board, then solder the correct wire to TX and one to RX on the board that it will do the same job as re-soldering the 2 contact points. Im a bit heavy handed and those solder points are a bit on the small side for me....

Get a connectivity kit and you wont' have to do any soldering.

I think you are missing what im saying. the 2 points on the liteon board that need to be re-soldered are the problem for my heavy handed soldering, those 2 are re-soldered for the rx and tx to operate, if i solder some wire from the positive of both points directly to the rx and tx points, will that do the same job as resoldering the 2 points. Then just solder the vcc, tx, rx, gnd to the board ready for reading.

Yes. You can solder the TX and RX to the 2 small solder points, or you can reconnect the 2 solder points and use the 2 bigger solder points under the power connector.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

Cheers buddy, thats what i was thinking, its less work for the same result..

Would you mind explaining this to me? I've ordered an Xecuter connectivity kit but I still don't get where I'm supposed to solder the two extra cables 'cause of that crummy tut.

If you look at the pic of the liteon board you will see 4 points to solder your cable to, vcc, tx, rx, gnd, and 2 solder points below those to reconnect. Now, instead of reconnecting the 2 bottom solder points just solder the tx to the bottom right point and the rx to the bottom left solder point and the vcc and ground to the normal points. This cuts down on a bit of work and should give the same result, the 2 bottom points that you reconnect go directly to the tx and rx main solder points on the board. Then just use the connectivity kit to power the drive as normal. There is no need to solder the extra wires from the max3232 to the connectivity kit.

I would strongly advise against this approach... It's very likely if you are not careful that you will rip the pads off the pcb and mostly likely decap the via.... These pads are absolutely tiny, even soldering to them could be enough to remove them


Be warned...

Thanks podger (and thanks for making me $200 so far on v79 mods ).

I'm just gonna use conductive paint on the two pads. What I'm wondering is if I can solder a solution using that MAX3232 thing and a Xecuter connectivity kit, since the 4 "big" solder pads just seem to connect to the connectivity kit in the first place.

Can't I just solder the MAX3232 thing to the connectivity kit?

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...sl=fr&tl=en

According to this, yes you can.

Not tried it myself yet.

Yeah, I Finally got what Google translator tried to tell me. Since the wires in the Xecuter connectivity kits are the same ones that you're supposed to solder on the actual Lite-on board you can just solder them to the Xecuter kit instead of to the board. Saves time in the future if you're a modder like me too.

The two 'gaps' on the board still have to be soldered though, but I'm gonna use conductive paint. It's a little expensive, but apparently it comes right off with q-tip after the job is done. In other words, only 4 solderings needed.

Cheers podger, i think i will go with the conductive paint that ree1981 mentioned for the 2 points that need reconnecting, no chance of lifting the pads that way.

.....D'oh. I don't even have a com/serial port on my computer. Another thing to get I guess. ^^;

Hi Guys...
I have one little question.
If i look into manual there is one problem. There is wrote:

Cable RS232 --------------> Connectivity Kit

Gnd ===================> 1 Gnd ===================> 1
V+ ====================> 10 V + ====================> 10

but on the picture the arrow not showing to the point 10 but show to the point 8!!!

And if i look to the picture with DVDrom PCB there is same problem... 3V show to the
point 8....

What is right???

I have only one describtion of this problem:

1) Nomally pins signings:

1 3 5 7 9 11
2 4 6 8 10 12

2) if i counting right on the picture are pins signed:

1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12

Its my opinion right? The pins 8 and 10 is same or in the picture is mistake???

its only my question, because i dont wont burning my x360 drive and RS232

Thanks for answers

VoDa

P.S. I apologize for my terrible english

Can someone please tell me if connectivity kit version 1 will work?

VoDa> The pic points to the right pin, but writes the wrong number. The right number is 8 as you said.

xlinkx> It will, but only as a power supplier. You can't use the buttons on it, so you have to manually eject the drive half-way before plugging the v1 kit in... in other words, useless.

Why cant you use the eject button then power off then push in the drive half way

Just repeating what I read. I have no experience with it.

Because, its the simple fact that the xbox's last known stage should be closed, not open.

hi to all, i am new in the forum and i am form argentina, i want to thank u this forum is amazing. now i have a question, the lite on key will work fine in a Samsung MS-25 in fact is this one.

http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-40...ra-xbox-360-_JM

Yes, but they say it's not Live-safe, so beware.

so i cant play online?
this method is to take out de dvdkey?
after the mod can i use the lite-on in normal way (to play originals games) or it will detected too?
thaks

PS: sorry for the bad english, iam making a huge effort

All it means is, there is an obvious route of detection should MS persue it.

You can still use live, as always you run the risk of being banned.

Yes you can put the lite-on in and use that for games online.

as far as we know if it the same as spoofing any other drive. and safer if you use the spoof data you pull from your Lite-On Drive to flash to your new Samsung drive. I would say your fine.

it's not. c4eva said that apparently the liteon uses its unique ID string in the SS generation somehow, which will obviously be missing in other drives.

Hello to all.

I have a few questions for you experts.

1) If you make something wrong to the construction of the RS232 to TTL converter, when you start the procedure of dumping the key can you damage the drive?

2) As i read you can construct the RS232 to TTL converter by using the MAX232 chip. As i checked the datasheets of MAX3232 and MAX232, it seems that the do the same job with the difference that the MAX232 requires 5v in order to operate whereas MAX3232 can work either by 3.3 or 5.
My question is:

If i supply the MAX232 with 5V from the PSU of my PC and not with the 3.3 of the XBOX360 controller, is their any chance to damage the drive?

3) I built an RS232 to TTL converter based on ST3232 chip. I did not manage to dump the key although i followed the guide (WITH NO CONNECTIVITY KIT) step by step. The error i was accepting from DVDKEY was the following:

c:\DVDKEY>dvdkey 9000
Port 9000
Drive Present
Wait about 20 seconds

It didn't work, sorry reg1: 54
DVD key:
00000000000000000000000000000000
Seems NOT a good DVD Key!!! 00 00
KEY.BIN saved

I am sure that the COM communication is ok as i tested my RS232 adapter by looping the tx and rx cables to the hyper terminal. Also my port has the right setting (3F8/IRQ4).
I tried several times with a lot of different variants of the dumping procedure with no result i was taking the same error all the time.

After testing and testing i realised that i had missplaced the tx,rx cables to the RS232 adapter (to wrong RS232 pins). I corrected them and tried to dump again with the same outcome (same error as before).

The problem is that now when i turn on the 360 it starts up ok no errors on the screen but when i put either games or movies to the drive, it does not read them and then i get "Unreadable error".

Is it any chance that i destroyed my drive or just i had a laser de-calibration?

If it is the second case i will build a new converter based on the MAX3232 chip and not to the ST3232 as it seems to have differences.

Thank you all in advance, i will appreciate your help.

Is there a good (better) online forum to learn about this new drive or should I just lurk in #fw and hope for the best?

You'll learn more about it on xbox.com than you will in #fw lol