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bigbronco
Hey guys, does anyone know how to tell if if there is power to the DVD rom drive. The button on the MB works because the dashboard shows opening and closing on the screen. The drive itself does not eject, spin, or make any noise at all. I would like to know it it is a problem with the MB, or the drive itself, so I can repair it. Just wondering if anyone has the trace layout, or what controls the power to it? Thanks BB
Wilhelm_I
Just take a multimeter and check it yourself...
There should be at least 1x 3.3V, 5V and 12V line.
Otherwise RDC might be able to help.
bigbronco
OK, confirmed voltage from MB and cable to DVD rom. 12v, 5v, and 3.3v. Now this leaves me with the problem of extracting the drive keys if the drive is not runnung. Its a TS H943. I know if I have another TS H943 I can swap the boards. Unfortunately I don't. I have three Hitachi drives sitting around. What in the drive itself supplies the power to the eject motor or the motor that spins up the disc? Also is there a way to make or buy a cable to read the drive key off the DVD rom drive with just a PC and not use the 360 board?
Thanks again, BB

Confirmed continuity from cable plug on DVD to eject tray motor., and continuity from cable plug on DVD to plug on DVD board that drives the motor that spins the disc. ?????
bigbronco
Update; in case anyone actually is reading this and wants to add some input. For the hell of it I tried to read the Drive Key again with iprep. This time it worked 5 seconds no go, 10 seconds no go, 15 no go, at 12 seconds it read. I got pumped. Put in a Hitachi and a Slax disc, Booted the PC, spinning up disc, go to hit the eject button..... nothing. Does anyone think it can be the button. I have a couple of old MBs I could yank one out of, but the dashboard shows opening and closing when I hit it. I am at a total loss here. I don't need it I have others I just want to figure it out.
Thanks for any input, BB
Wilhelm_I
QUOTE(bigbronco @ Sep 2 2008, 11:29 PM) *

Update; in case anyone actually is reading this and wants to add some input. For the hell of it I tried to read the Drive Key again with iprep. This time it worked 5 seconds no go, 10 seconds no go, 15 no go, at 12 seconds it read. I got pumped. Put in a Hitachi and a Slax disc, Booted the PC, spinning up disc, go to hit the eject button..... nothing. Does anyone think it can be the button. I have a couple of old MBs I could yank one out of, but the dashboard shows opening and closing when I hit it. I am at a total loss here. I don't need it I have others I just want to figure it out.
Thanks for any input, BB

Hmmm might be the Southbridge or the connection to the power cable like...
Try to short the eject button manually for a second
If this doesnt work it will be Southbridge related for sure.
Then you will have to heatgun it
bigbronco
OK, I shorted out the eject button and I got the opening and closing on the dash but no tray movement. Wilhelm_I this is how I have been re-flowing. I made some aluminum shields out of 1/8" aluminum plate and used aluminum duct tape for HV/AC work to attach aluminum foil for more shielding. I am drilling the bases of the metal housing large enough for the SS screw heads to go through so that there is no stress on the MB when the other screws are tightened. I am using a SMD/BGA rework station to hot air the GPU and CPU. I attached photos I did not see support for HTML code on this site. I hope you can see them. Exactly what part of the MB are you saying you think I have a failed connection?

http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s340/pr...oa/100_2218.jpg
http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s340/pr...oa/100_2219.jpg
http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s340/pr...oa/100_2191.jpg
http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s340/pr...oa/100_2220.jpg

Thanks for the help BB
Wilhelm_I
QUOTE(bigbronco @ Sep 3 2008, 03:55 PM) *

OK, I shorted out the eject button and I got the opening and closing on the dash but no tray movement. Wilhelm_I this is how I have been re-flowing. I made some aluminum shields out of 1/8" aluminum plate and used aluminum duct tape for HV/AC work to attach aluminum foil for more shielding. I am drilling the bases of the metal housing large enough for the SS screw heads to go through so that there is no stress on the MB when the other screws are tightened. I am using a SMD/BGA rework station to hot air the GPU and CPU. I attached photos I did not see support for HTML code on this site. I hope you can see them. Exactly what part of the MB are you saying you think I have a failed connection?

http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s340/pr...oa/100_2218.jpg
http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s340/pr...oa/100_2219.jpg
http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s340/pr...oa/100_2191.jpg
http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s340/pr...oa/100_2220.jpg

Thanks for the help BB

Hmmm
Did you try a different drive yet?
It might also be the drive.

If you have ruled this out reflow this chip
It is the silver one with the Xbox 360 logo that is in the red and blue area...
http://xe.brothersoffreedom.com/en/pics/ethernet_sb.jpg
bigbronco
Yes, I tried another drive. Going to re-flow the chip with 360 logo on it right now.
BB
bigbronco
Didn't work. Same thing. No tray movement, no disc spinning. Any more suggestions???
Wilhelm_I
QUOTE(bigbronco @ Sep 4 2008, 01:15 AM) *

Didn't work. Same thing. No tray movement, no disc spinning. Any more suggestions???

Am not sure if this will work but you could connect the wire from the eject button straight to the eject wire and the other to the gnd...
Guess you will have to cut the traces to the southbridge first though otherwise this might lead to problems...
Remember that the eject button will only interract as eject-button afterwards, if you get the ROD you cant get the secondary error code anymore...
Wait for someone else to confirm this though...
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