OK here is we Go...this is the best solution for cod5 and other Latest games including halo etc....

Stage 1: Building the Programmer
ok first we will get warmed you by building the programmer...
equipment required....

Soldering iron 15-30W
Solder
30AWG wire
N-channel MOSfet ( Bs170 or similar)
Resistor 10K
Resistor 22K
Resistor 2.2k
Leds 3-5MM (Optional)
Socket 8 pin for the chip (recommended but optional)
RS232 (serial) female socket.



OK that said here is the schematic for the programmer pretty straight Forward...Depending if you are going to use leds, i did...it tells you power and read/write...





Here is the one i made with slight modification to the diagram because i like to keep it neat...


Testing to see if it works

It works!!!!:) you only to to plug in the USB it test the Mosfet...

Step 2: Programming
Download and install the following...

1.WINPIc 800


Depending on the style of Rapid fire you want either

1. Sleeper not cutting or drilling required the controller looks totally stock has 3 mode..

• mode1= Halo 3 dual trigger
• Mode2= Cod 5 WAW
• Mode3= insane fast Cod4

2. Rapidfire RF you have to install 2 buttons one for each trigger (only to change mode you will not actually use it to fire) .This one has the ability to enable/disable rapidfire on each trigger independently...you can also have different moded in bot triggers at once, eg..
Left Trigger Halo3 speed, Right trigger Cod4 speed,
Left trigger Cod5 speed right trigger halo3 Speed, so on and son on...

• Mode1= Halo3 speed
• Mode2= Cod5 Speed
• Mode3= Cod4 speed fast
• Mode4=cod4 Ultrafast

of once you have got the above programs installed ...
Open Win PIC make sure your programmer in connected...

you might have to choose English from the second last menu item thing at the top...
go to

Settings>Hardware>
Choose JDM Programmer and Select your com port and select APPLY...Test hardware by pressing (Ctrl+T)

Now You are ready for programming...Make sure you have Pic12F683 selected at the top right hand corner.

Open the Hex File (File>Open), (either RapidfireRF.hex or Sleeper.hex) depending on the style you are going to be modding it...

Then simply got to.
Device>Program All ( ctrl+P )

DONE now You are Ready to Put it in your Controller

Installation
Sleeper Install
OK First Determine if you have a matrix or CG Controller...
Wire according to this diagram
CG Sleeper


Matrix Sleeper

Rapid Rf install

oK if you have decided to do the Rapid rf install here is how you wire the Controller........

If you have a CG controller


If you have a Matrix Controller

these are hazars pix from the microchip fourm. please give credit where it is due.
where is the .ASM or .hex without them all this is useless.

shall I say burn me up?

sweet. If only i could get a 12f683 chip. Also, what exactly do you have to put in the controller. Or would they be too much junk to free-form it to keep the rumblers?

I dont believe he meant to take credit. This is the first guide someone has posted on how to do this from scratch. Good work.

Sleeper code and schems: BurnMeUp2

Fastmode atct code and schems: GameplayRF

Have fun folks.

You should be able to keep the rumbles and I would suggest soldering the LED connections to the traces on the board and not directly to the LEDs since if you're not careful you can toast the LEDs and or the connections.

But it is about time someone did a tut for the pic chip and programmer! So now there are a few choices for everyone. Good job!

Ok before you go Crazy this tutorial is still WIP...I was planing to Give credit in the End To Hareer and RDC but i guess some ppl just can wait...

The reason i dont use Burnmeup2 and Rapidrf is because to keep the tutorial As Simple as possible and as less confusing...Because burnmeup works for both sleeper and Rf config but i recommend it only for sleeper, the rf however only works for RF ,
so why would you use burnmeup 2 on a Rf ? its provided less functionality (1 less mode)

The files provided above will not work in cod 5 as the fire rate is wrong...
i will post both file in a few hours...

ok here are the files (hex files that you need to program your Chips...

All the files are COD5 WAW Ready...

use sleeper if you are doing the sleeper install
Use Gameplay rf if you are doing the Rf install,,,
Rapidfire hex Files

Install PIctures.















my camera is Pretty good, that was my Phone Camera BTW...

Couple Questions:

How are the modes changed between each model?

I also was wondering if yellow wires that are running to the leds in the pics are actually required in order to change modes or anything like that or can they just be left out and still be able to change modes?

okay...on the light deal....does that now get in way of the rubber pad.??/

yes you dont have to connect the yellow wire for the light.
to change mode on the sleeper you just press the sync button once and you will see the led blink 2 for the second mode and 3 time for the 3rd mode...

on the rf setup you just hold the button corresponding for each trigger as shown here
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=csfHdxrJaAI



No the light does not get in the way if you wire like i did...no problems there

Hi I have dial up and after waiting 20+ minutes for the video in the end it said the video is no longer avialable.

possible you could just post what needs to be done in order to change modes on the rapid fire version.

you tube sucks for dial-up people and does not work half the time.

Nice I like it a lot. I'm definitly going to make this one. Off topic, but what type of phone do you have?

the video is definently there ( Hazeer actually posted it)....

BTW my phone is HTC Kaiser (tytn2)

Ok this tuto is exellent, but i have a question ¿can i use the usb port to program the pic?
How can i do that
Thanks for the information
Atte:Cordova

you can if you have a serial to usb converter thing,,, but the usb port in the pics above is just for getting 5v from the PSU...

Ok thanks, but i know that the usb that is in the pics are for the 5 v that the circuit use, anyway im going to obtain the conveter that you said my friend.
But now my cuestion is, in the settings/hardware menu i choose JDM Programmer and Select my com port or what, the settings change if i use the usb port to program the pic
Thanks again for the help
Atte:Cordova

Did you get my PM? Also, in the pictures of the mod you installed, why did you only have 1- wire installed to the led and the schmatic that someone made had 2.

depends if you converter is serial to use or usb to serrial...
yes the com settings will change in the settings section of JDM programmer.
you will just have to try them out and see which one works there is only like 5 i think...


i did the sleeper install hence i had one wire to the LEd...

but if you do the RF install you have 2wires to leds one for each trigger (triggers are controlled indipendnently with the RF install)
..watch the youtube video that is a RF install
its a matter of preference of course, sleeper is easier...

okay, ive got most of the parts and im confused on the schmatic. on the schmatic with the leds, are the led positive pointing up or down. And im also having trouble with the MOSFET.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2062618

using that picture, is the gate all the way to the left?

Thanks,

Okay, i got it straightened out. Cant edit the post about, but i had everything in opposite thanks to a little googling with dial up. But anyway, im using a serial port..and i have no clue which hardware setting to choose. Would it be "ETT-LOW VPP ICSP"..(+5V VPP)???? I also had trouble when putting my wires on the serial thing because your numbers were different from the ones written on it..which made it a tad bit more confusing.

Also, do i have to have a chip to see if it works?

all you have to do is match the Drain (D) ,Gte(G),Source(S) to the schematic...
look at the datasheet of the mosfet search in google...

with hardware settings in winpic800 all you have to select is JDm programmer and comport...
everything else should be auto.

the led positive legs (longer leg) is pointing toward the resister hence down...

So yea, im sitting here waiting on my chips to come in the mail (The guy who sold them to me is 90miles away) But, you said in that you mod you put pics up, how come there is 2 resistors and you used 2 in the picture? And on the regular RF mod, (Not sleeper) Do you push it to turn on RF for the LT/RT and the LED comes on?)

Gahwd, sorry for spamming your thread, but i got the chips in today, popped it in my programmer and hooked it up and the led went out or something (I know why, will tell later), so i rebuilt it and it came on then i found out that my led comes on when u read/ erase stuff or something. But yea, i tried programming it and a error pops up when im writing it. But i can erase code and read code easily? Any clue?...im about to go out and buy a programmer atm because this is pissing me off =\

i just finished making the RF dual rapid one, unfortunately it did not work in COD 5. can anyone else confirm ir is this just me?

did you make the programmer too? Or am i the only one experiancing problems with the program

no i had a programmer , this is the code, although i haven't tried out the sleeper the rf isnt looking good on CoD5

^^ Thats not good =\. All this hope for nothing? You DID do the sleeper right?

no the other one i am going to make a sleeper soon though hopefully it works in COD5

i say you might have a resistor messed up? I dont know personally. Theres alot of components compared to the sleeper.

Make sure you have the right hex codes. The ones I posted were the original codes before COD5. Haris2887 has posted new ones with COD5 speeds.

that was it i had the first code not the new one works great now!!!!

Did you happen to make the programmer?

Salincer: I believe you are having a very common problem with the JDM programmer.

A few things: If you have a multimeter, check the voltages on the pins of your serial port. They need to be +/-13VDC in order for the JDM to produce the programming voltage needed to program the chip.

Also, some windows versions do not like these chip programmer softwares using the serial port. There is a file called portio.dll that you can google (with jdm also) in order to find help with that.

If you are not connecting to the chip at all, the software will say it succesfully erased a chip, and all you can read back is zeros. A blank chip is actually filled with 0x3FF as blank space. So dont let that fool you in thinking you are connected to the programmer.

Also, check your serial cable. Some cheap serial cables only have 3 wires in them and the JDM needs a complete 9wire pass-through extension cable.

Good luck.

Hey, thanks alot on the help. Im logging everything, and trying to get it to work on a older computer.

11V from 3rd pin(ground) and 5pin (Pos.)
Hardware test with chip in.... ERROR -> Hardware is not responding
Hardware test with no chip in....Opening COM1. Hardware Ok.
click "READ ALL" Button. 100% progress..read 2048 words, press accept and everything is 3FFF
Then i click VERify all and 100% complete.
Open Sleeper.hex
Program all
Detected -> UNKOWN, device erased, programming Code- 2048 word, 0% and then "ERROR -> Writing address 0x000000 written : 0x2883 Read : 0x3ff
Erase all > device erased.

Gahwd i love this CPU- 534 MHZ.

Its in JDM Programmer, COM1. I have the right chip selected.
I ran over the schmatics, built it twice. oh and led status:
When plugged in USB w/o serial and w/o chip, all lights come on
When plugged in USB w/ serial and w/o chip, only power light comes onbut the MOSFET will if i read/write
When plugged in USB w/o serial and w/ chip, only power light comes on but the MOSFET will if i read/write
When plugged in serial and no USB, no light come on...but the MOSFET will if i read/write

I have question haris2887 what type of push botton you use in your controller
And what hex code i use for halo 3 or GOW 2, the one you upload or the code that Hazeree upload

And another question haris2887 explain me the diference of the sleeper mode an the rf mode because y dont get it please, sleeper is slower than the rf but is faster than the normal fire or what.

Sleeper = no external buttons, you use the sync button to switch mode
RF mode= you press the external buttons you installed to switch between modes

The button in the pictures of where to hook the wires up in the controller are tactical switches i believe.
You would want to upload Haris's code i believe. And like the tutorial says, you would need to upload the code for whichever mode you go by (Either sleeper, or RF mode).

Thank you for this information. I've been intersted in trying to do this.

ohhh I understand now thanks, and im saying what buttons haris2887 use for the switch between modes in the rf mode you know what buttons use in his controller model or what , and when i said what hex code im triying to said that wich of the both codes of rf works with halo 3 or gow 2
haris2887 or Hazeree codes for the rf mode
Salincer thanks for answer so quickly
Atte:Cordova

bump for a guy in need of major help

Is it possible the mosfet is wired incorrectly?

Another thing to try is the other software (theres Winpic and Winpic800). Sometimes people have luck with one and not the other.

The USB is to test the mosfet. Ive tried it backwards and the light doesnt even light up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-TO-RS232-9-PIN-SER...A1%7C240%3A1318

--i have hopes that that might work. If not, i would save anyway because i would then have to buy a serial programmer

Thanks now i have my rf controller
I use the mosfet bs170 and it was easy to use
Oh and i use a matrix contoller and work well
Thanks again
Atte:Cordova

you didnt have any trouble with the programming?

EDIT: Is it possible to have bad pic chips? Like maybe a PW on it or something

The chances of bad PICs are very slim. The chances of having trouble with the JDM programmer is pretty common.

I have only recently had a problem myself getting the JDM to work on a computer. Most of the time I have had no problems, but recently I had to restore one of my computers from a ghost backup and since then I have not been able to get winpic800 to work on it anymore. I gave up since I use a different computer for programming anyway.

At this point, the only thing I could recommend is trying a different computer if you are absolutely certain the wiring is correct.