Well, decided to give modding my 360 after a couple months reading about it and psyching myself up, AAAAANNND i think i borked it all up.

i made the trace cuts, pulled out the multimeter....traces not cut....CUT them traces up.....still getting shorts on the traces. In fact there is only one test point that gives me an open(the right side of the top trace), in addition there are shorts all over this goddamn board.

im pretty sure i may have borked this thing, but when i repaired all my traces with conductive pen it still works normally in the 360 and JF detects it, but as soon as i clean the pen off it shits the bed.

i cant tell if some of the pen is lingering in little grooves my xacto made or what, its been 8 hours and im at a total loss.

the top image is of the board
the bottom image is where im getting shorts

i know i got overzealous with the trace cutting, i was desperate






Thanks

I'll dispense with the obvious comments, you know what a bad boy you've been. I could do a 3 point turn in those gaps...

Sounds to me like you've still got a lot of conductive paint on that board...how are you removing it? I'd use a cotton bud with some acetone/nail varnish remover etc.

A gap is just a gap, as long as you can bridge it there's no problem. I can still see a lot of copper so I'd recommend soldering it although I'm not sure I'd trust you with even a pair of scissors now..

As mentioned i would def clean up the conductive glue u have left on the board and post another pic, there is quite clearly glue from that top left cut touching the trace below, and glue on the bottom trace on the left touching eitherside.

i cleaned that board up...took my time with tape and the pen...AAANDD IT FUUUCKIN WOOORRRKED!!!!

the wierd thing is, the shorts were still there during dump and during reassembly.

i read, erased, flashed, figured out the stupid(me) blaster ck3 switches and after 14 hours straight im playing backups...no sweat, piece of cake.

thanks for the help anyways, i kinda figured/hoped/prayed i would nuke it out before someone answered due to me posting so late last night.

gracias

ps. the alcohol being 70% IPA is what made everything a PITA, i grabbed some 99% and some acetone and the stuff was coming off in places that looked clean...i cant imagine what was going through the walmart ladys mind at 3 am, prolly thought i was making meth.

and...i know i know, im like the least handy person i know, my wife has to put all the ikea stuff we buy together cause i manhandle it....i realized that if i had just stayed calm and patient the first cuts i made wouldve been fine and the board wouldnt look like a 2 year old teehed on it...

oh well live and learn

I did the same thing as this oldcripple guy, I fucked up my soldering job, But I got the key at least.

can I spoof a 7 or 8 series drive and be stealth on live?

You dont need to spoof at all. Just flash the LT firmware you was going to flash to your trashed drive to the new drive. All Liteon firmwares are interchangeable.

thats the only way to do it. my first one turned out to be faulty drive or something, it wouldnt read discs at all. friend told me later it fell a few times, but i extracted the key. I was doubting my skills.
but now I got it down to 50 mins after doing a handful.
Itd be nicer if a few more tutorials explained why you have to do some stuff instead of just doing it.
cleaning up all the protective green in other areas is what leads to shorts like grounds and cause trouble.
I do the boxxdr way now and for the points on the bottom, i scratch a spot barely bigger than the tip of a ball point pen.
And no switch crap either for the resistors. alligator clip baby. let go when dumping.