im runnning windows 7 64bit trying to dump a 7xxx drive. im using the jf method because i destroyed pad 101, when i picked the drive up it broke off. now i have it all wired up and its detected in the bios windows is a little hesitant to load but it makes it. i open up jungle flasher (AS AN ADMIN) and click the non ide box, when i click on the port my drive is connected to it says Drive is Liteon.. and the "thinking" circle is going. then explorer shuts down all i can do is see the desktop wallpaper and move the mouse. ctrl alt del wont open up task manager. ive done it 5 times to be sure any suggestions?

Why are you doing a v7 like that? What's wrong with the DVDkey32 method and a simple homemade probe?

Why do you want the drive to be detected in Windows?

Are you using a VIA card?

What do you mean "I destroyed pad 101 when I picked up the drive"?

So many questions.

if you destroyed pad 101, u will have to use pad 122 instead, it is left of the other cut you made. also, that jumper wire that goes from the one trace to the other, u will have to leave that one installed after u fix the pad 122 cut fo rthe drive to work like it is stock. take a picture of your work so i can see if you have any shorts. worse case, there are a few of us that can fix these in the event of an emergency. most importantly, DO NOT FIRE UP THE DRIVE/PCB UNLESS YOU ARE 100% POSITIVE YOU DON'T HAVE ANY SHORTS!!!

i checked for shorts and as i said i used the jf method pad 122 and the 3.3v pin on the top of the board im really paranoid about moving the board around because the traces break off so easy but ill grab some pics now give me a min

looks bad but i tested with a multi meter and everything checked out okay

? y u usen a three-way toogle switch. whats that other wire coonected to?
other thing to try is cleanin up ur board with desolder braid u prolly got soilder stuck down in the cut. its gotta be clean for it to work

Get some closer pics of the cuts so i can see if there is soilder down in there and see if the cuts are all the way cut. Get a really close clear picture.
the wire u r usen is pretty big to try usen 30awg or something. make sue the wire isnt touchin any ground points besides the one that is supposed to. u might have a wire fraid and toachin a ground. i cant see cause the pic is to far away.

also switch the red and black wire on the switch around, black in the middle and leave the resistor where its at. dont have the red wire on there. if everything is good its still not goin to work with the switch wired the way u have it. the switch is made to conect the black wire the the resistor when u need it, the way u got it wire the resistor only connects to the red, and when u flip the switch the black only connects to the red. u got ur switced wired wrong

that is the original mra hack listed in the jf tut. not sure why the more up to date version isn't used but that is why he has a 3 way and 3 wires from it. OP, all you have to do is run that resistor to the trace/pad 122. then after you intro, cut the resistor and continue flashing. also, your solder is very sloppy, either you need to learn to solder on something else for a bit till you get it or bring it to a pro, you are only risking permanent damage if you don't start doing things right from here on out. you will need some solder removing wick to fix your current problems.

he still needs to switch the wires around for the switch to even work. it isnt conectin the black to the resistor then way he has it wired. he need to eliminate the red wire and but the black where the red is for it to even work atleast to get the FW off. then he can worry bout fixin the board. but atleast get the key off!