This is (was) a DS3 controller I've been commissioned to make up, or break up depending on how you look at it.
Because of how the PS3 controller boards are there's no way to cut any of those things and have half of it in each part of the shell, but since each half of this controller is going to be attached to a frame of some sort that makes for the perfect place to hold the board, battery pack PS button and USB connector. This is also the latest version of the DS3 controller the MSU_VX4 0.09, and more info on it, as well as other PS3 controller versions, can be seen here - http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=648322
Right here is just a 'test mess' to make sure the Sticks wouldn't have any issues being extended too far off of the board, and the controller shell hacked down the middle as well, rough cut just for testing right now.
This is the DS3 board all wired up. Note the Resistors that are soldered on the board, these are installed to replace the Pull Up Resistors that are built into the Daughter board, and while installing them here only saves 2 wires per side, it ends up being 8 wires after it would all be wired up on each half and the less the better, as it's already a 42 wire job for the two halves, 24 for the Left side and 18 for the Right side, that is if you wish to keep it 100% functional. You could have 32 total, 16 Left and Right, if you wanted to forgo the Rumble motors, LEDs and Reset button, but I didn't.
At the end of those large wire groups on the left and right will be connectors that will plug into the controller shell halves and that pretty much finishes up this part of the controller until it's mounted to the frame and the PS button is wired up and then it and the miniUSB connector mounted somewhere.
This is technically going to take 4 controllers to pull off, or more accurately 1 complete DS3, 1 DS3 board (hacked in half to hold the Sticks, LEDs and connectors) and 2 older Six-Axis Daughter boards and connectors. The reason for this is to keep the controller halves feeling, as well as functioning, just like they did before. It could be done with a pile of Tact switches and huge mess of hot glue, bracing and making an overall mess inside, but that would take away from the feel and function of the controller, something I prefer not to do, even if it's more difficult to pull off. In this case though, keeping the original Daughter board setup and such there's no dealing with glue, bracing, trying to make this or that fit in one place or another, not to mention making it next to impossible to work on if it ever needed, so this way is technically easier than using a lot of Tact switches, and when completed, aside form each half being a little over a foot away from each other, it will look, feel and function exactly as any other DS3 controller.
This is the Left half of the controller around 90% done up as the Sticks, LEDs and Reset button are all wired up right now. It still needs the connector soldered up to the extra wires there that are for the D-pad, L1/2 and Select buttons and the H.Rumble motor wires as well.
Here it is plugged into the main board and working.
Here is the Right half around 90% done, and it just needs the Buttons, R1/2 and Start wired up to it's connector is all.
Here the Left half of the shell has been completed and the board installed...
..and the the Right side completed.
Finally here it all is, this part of it anyway. I've no idea what it will end up looking like after it leaves here.