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Full Version: Starting Over. Can Someone Help Me Troubleshoot This?
Scenyx Entertainment Community > Xbox1 Forums > Modchip Forums > Team Omega Chips (DuoX)
rmcelwee
First of all, I'm no stranger to mod chips. It has been a while but I built 5 or 6 modded XBox1s a few years back. I'm not the best with a soldering iron but I can find my way around with one and I am ok with a multimeter.

I currently have a working XBox1 with a DuoX2 GS white chip. I have had it for a few years and wanted to have something to play around with so I bought a 2nd ver 1.1 box and two DuoX2 GS white chips. I bought two just in case I needed a second one for trouble shooting (and perhaps building a 3rd box).

I installed the pin header and my solder points looked good. I jumped BT to G to have a constant on and soldered D0 to the alternate spot.

The symptoms:
If I boot with the chip installed it boots to the MS dashboard.
If I boot with alligator clips connecting D0 (still wired to the alternate point) to the metal of the case I FRAG.
No lights have ever lit up on the chip.

What I have tried as far as troubleshooting:
1) Freshened up the solder on all points between the header and motherboard.
2) Pulled chip #1 off and put chip #2 on. Used alligator clips to jump from D0 on chip #2 to D0 on chip#1 (still wired to the Alt position on the motherboard - continuity checked of course). This boots to MS dashboard with no LED lit on the chip.
3) Checked for continuity in various places:
- All header pins have continuity to somewhere on the motherboard
- All header pins have continuity to the chip's board.
- D0 and ALT D0 (both on motherboard) have continuity.

I don't think I screwed up horribly when soldering and I wanted to ask for advice before messing with the solder joints again. I am worried about screwing them up and having to buy another XBox.

Anyone have some advice for me?
Joes2Silly
If you want the chip to be constantly on just remove the BT wire and solder your D0 to a ground (either the screw holes on the motherboard or the shielding work well). I have no clue how to get the chip to boot with the BT wire and D0 wire properly connected because I never used em' laugh.gif
rmcelwee
QUOTE(Joes2Silly @ Apr 24 2011, 01:06 AM) *

If you want the chip to be constantly on just remove the BT wire and solder your D0 to a ground (either the screw holes on the motherboard or the shielding work well). I have no clue how to get the chip to boot with the BT wire and D0 wire properly connected because I never used em' laugh.gif


I took your advice and pulled the BT to G wire and grounded D0. The box FRAGs just like before. If I ground D0 I FRAG no matter what else I do. I guess this is a good indication that my D0 is connected/soldered correctly.
rmcelwee
I reflowed the solder on the pin header. Same thing - FRAGs if I connect D0. It does this on both chips so it HAS to be something with the header but as I said, I tested for continuity and it looked good.
rmcelwee
Swapped one of the new unflashed chips into a known good XBOX. The box booted to Cromwell Bios just fine so I know the chip and header that is soldered to the chip is good.

Swapped a known good chip into the XBOX I am working on and it would not work. The red LED on chip would not light and it would just boot to MS dashboard. I am not sure why it did not frag? I was holding the chip's D0 wire and motherboard's D0 wire together with alligator clips with tested continuity it would not FRAG. When I ground D0 on the motherboard is does FRAG. I don't understand what is going on???

rmcelwee
QUOTE(rmcelwee @ Apr 24 2011, 02:51 AM) *

I reflowed the solder on the pin header. Same thing - FRAGs if I connect D0. It does this on both chips so it HAS to be something with the header but as I said, I tested for continuity and it looked good.


Well, I was correct. I HAD to be something with the header. This time I removed all the old solder and then soldered the pin header to the motherboard again. I do not know why but it worked this time. Very strange.

Thanks for all your help!!!
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