Hi Guys,


I finally got to the last stage and flashed using jtag tool, was all excited and unfortunately turned it on and just got a black screen... so I tried 360 multi builder and command nanpro.exe lpt: -w64 nandflash.bin (4 hrs each time I flash...)

Still just get a black screen...

This thread seems to imply a problem with jaspers http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=17241.0 so I dont know what to do now Just give up?

The fact that it loaded the xell screen before and I got the cpu key shows my soldering is good right? It looks good to me and Im scared to remove and resolder as Im worried about all the solder coming off and being unable to solder there again. (happend on my practice board after soldering 5-10 times in the same place)

Holding eject wont load xell either... just a green light on the front of the box, a red one on the tx cool runner and a green one (also on the coolrunner) that flashes every few seconds, sometimes it stops flashing green tho after awhile... Left it on for 10+ mins and nothing comes up...

Any ideas?

If I end up going back to stock I need to unsolder the tx coolrunner right?

This is really annoying, this has been by far the most complicated mod I`ve ever tried and I was all proud of myself when the xell screen came with the ecc file flashed to it... thought I`d done it... but noooo...

Cooler runner set to phat and nor, only thing I can think of is that I didnt program the chip myself. I bought it pre prgrammed but the place is reputable so it shouldnt be an issue. CB is 6750, so all good there. No bad blocks or any errors in the 3 matching reads I did. I also put the capacitor on ground and A on the cool runner (68nF)

actually multibuilder said something about booting into xell and flashing it that way... Not sure how to boot into xell tho as holding down the eject key does nothing. Does it mean I should try to flash back the ecc file and then load that xell screen with the fusesets and put my USB stick in then?

Confused

Any help appricated...

I've got similar issues on a falcon I'm trying to sort out.

You don't need to remove the wiring, see the prg/nor switch?

If you flash your stock image back on then you just switch that to prg (it effectively cuts power to the cpld) and it will boot like its not in circuit. Works for me for now.

Edit: If you get xell running again just put xenon.elf (from rawflash v3) and your original nand (renamed to nandflash.bin) in the root of usb stick then press eject to start xell and wait. It will flash back your stock image.
That's when you turn the chip off

Thanks! Thats really good to know.

I wont flash back to stock yet... 4 hrs to flash is annoying me. Maybe I should have bought a USB flasher but figured since I had lpt here y bother. Now I know why .



Hopefully someone will come up with some idea`s... I`d hate to end up on stock after I bought the cool runner and a new soldering iron and got all excited about the idea of playing dlc and all the other things I could do.

PS If u figure out your issue pls post here in case it is the same issue or PM me. Thanks.

Ok, will keep you updated if I find out anything.

As for 4hrs, if you flash your ecc file back on (which is way quicker) and get xell to boot then you can try any image you want, stock or hacked. If they won't boot just repeat the procedure and you can try again

ok, I`ll give it a go...

I`ll be really suprised if it changes anything tho

Ha, ofcourse now the ecc wont load xell

Tried about a dozen times...each for 5 mins

Flashing back to original nand the long way, assume this is the correct command in nandpro?

nandpro lpt: -w64 nanddump.bin

the + and - thing confuses me :|

So if it wont load anything on stock nand with tx set to prg then Ive damaged something or have a short or something right? (Already checked with multimeter and everything seems ok to me).

Gee,

Flashed back to stock and got 3 ROL error code 0022...

Crap!

When I first did the ecc flash and I plugged in to test xell I forgot to plug the fans in and I left it on for a few mins... It crashed once with artifacts on the screen... but I did boot into xell 3 times after that with no issues.

Or could this be a poor solder job somewhere? I just desoldered stby clk as that was the one I found hardest... but still 3 ROL. Dammit. Any ideas?

Reading through the thread it sounds like you killed your 360. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS have fans connected and shroud on with phat units!!!!!

3RLOD can be a bad TSOP image (your NAND restore was verified?) or you left your CPU RST soldered on. remove that (bottom point) and it should boot. IF you KNOW the NAND is 100% stock, then you may have killed the board, and need a reflow/reball under your GPU. These things get quite hot trying to boot up for 5 minutes without any cooling.

Other notes:
As for your stuck jaspers never booting you need a capacitor. i used a 0.1uF across the CPU RST and GND. don't use an electrolytic - it shouldn't have polarity. This caused it to boot instantly. I think its across the F point on Matrix and the A point on TX CoolRunners. Ensure you read into Some say to try 470pF and keep paralleling them up until it boots reliably, determine value (470x amt of caps) and install that one. I never got reliable boots and ran out of caps to parallel so 0.1uF worked great!
Other people with incredibly fussy units suggest a 680pf on CPU PLL and 470pf on CPU RST, both parallel to GND. There is a lot of threads on this, stubborn japser 6750.

Also your wire routing is critical. avoid the inductors (the pieces that look like a tiny PVC pipe was cut and had 14awg wire wrapped around it) on top and bottom side of board! Try to route through southbridge board holes rather than by fan.

If you are getting Xell to boot, but you can't get ggBuild to load, its likley a CB error. Load your stock NAND in Flash Tool and note the CB version, then load your ggBuild NAND in flash tool and see if the CB is same version. If not Multi-builder 0.3 by rodrigo helps with this. Otherwise extract and decrypt your CB and force that to be used in the ggbuild script.

Just some of my humble findings. Hope it helps someone

I don't think you killed a Jasper without fans for a few minutes. I would suggest checking the routing of your wiring, especially the 3 in this picture. These will cause dead boots, freezing and other issues. As stated previously the quickest way to test is to flash the ecc file with +w64 and test booting into xell then use rawflash for the final image once you have it booting nicely.

I actually had my blue wire going over that point that says keep wires away from this area. I tried to take some pics but my camera wont zoom in that close I just moved it now.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/001zzqz.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/005nky.jpg/

I dont think I killed it with the no fans as a google search seems to identify quite a few more ppl with the same problem...

This link has two ppl with it http://teamxecuter.entryhost.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=73933

I cant register there ( says server load too high)

But that last guy`s description is exactly the same as mine.

"Flashed my original NAND back,
Console sits at green light black screen then 3red lights 0022 after about 45 seconds :-/
If I read the nand it matches the original."

Other threads talk about using donar nands and inserting your kv and flashing and getting it working that way... I`ll have to figure out how to do that next I think, I`ll try anything b4 I buy a new box and the missus kills me

All my RGH wires are still connected. I dont want to de-solder them yet unless I have to. TX coolrunner is set to prg... ie turned off.

0022 is most likely a bridged solder joint or short and my guess would be to check point A (PLL_BYPASS) on the board. Desolder that connection and clean it up and I'll bet it will boot fine.

Ive checked with a mulitimeter tho ? Doesnt seem to be any continuity to the other points there.

I just tried to flash to ecc again with no go...

so another 4 hrs to flash back to stock again and then I`ll remove all rgh wires and see what happens.

Cant figure out how to use a doner nand and with my cpu key or wateva... no newb tuts for that one, not sure if it would even help. If anyone knows of a step by step instructional for using a donar nand, I`d like it try it... (Assuming this stock and removing wires doesnt work).

oh and btw I dont get RROD when nand is flashed with ECC or final ggbuild image. Only on stock if that matters, seems weird to me but maybe the glitch is stopping it from booting that far or something.

ecc ggbuild just black screen.

*Sigh*

Flashed back original nand and removed all rgh wires... Still rrod on 0022.

I still dont think I damgaged it without the fans for a couple mins as it did boot xell 3 different times after that.

Checked all solder pnts b4 and after removal of wires, no continuity where it shouldnt be either way.

Could it get 0022 from carrying the board around in one hard or something? Maybe some kind of flex on the board? ( I had one hand carrying the board and one the power board to and from the computer to flash it and back to the tv to test it. 2-3meters. I did that twice...

Its either a hardware issue or something wrong with the nand I guess?
Anyone in sydney thats good with this stuff? I think Im going to end up with a bulky paper weight ;(

Found a guide for making a donor nand...

This is my donor compared to the original. I assume the CB ect that is all different doesnt matter? DVD key and everything all matches.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/853/11811021.jpg/

Only thing is all my originals were 64 megs and this donor (obtained from jtag tool downloads) is 512 meg.

Do I flash it back with:

nandpro lpt: -w512 jasper.bin

or

nandpro lpt: -w64 jasper.bin

obviously the 512 is going to take alooooooong time and probably wont make any difference. Im now thinking the board is dead :/ but going to try it anyway.

Ok,

So I flash with donor and still 0022.

No nand flashing will fix it, no shorts or lifted pads that I can find, so I guess it just got a standard 0022 from moving the board around or running it without fans for a couple mins.

Have contact some sydney ppl about repair and waiting on reply and cost... If its too much I might just try an oven reflow :/

Big trouble with my missus tho and forbidden from trying to rgh anymore as $$ are rather tight at the moment and cant afford to waste on more repairs or new box

all is not lost hopefully i have done more than a few RGHs and from what i have seen 0022 on stock is caused by damage to CPU_PLL_BYPASS basically i have noticed it is very easy to half pull that point up where the point still has solder on it but the very tiny trace connecting it to the resistor is broken (it is especially easy to damage trying to remove the wire once soldered) to fix this go here http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=17051.0 and use the CPU_PLL_BYPASS fix all you really need is your trusty soldering iron some 30 AWG kynar wire and a fiber pen (you can use a DRY kitchen sponge and some rubbing alcohol in place of the fiber pen if you got no $$)

hope it helps

I dont think mine has lifted...It doesnt look that pic but the same as the other points around it. I dont have a good enough camera to really zoom in and show ya.

However, there must be a way to test it with a multimeter right? IE scrape that point on the pic and test that point and pll bypass and if there is continuity between them then its ok right? And the problem lies elsewhere?

like i said you can halfway pull the point very easily (it doesn't even look like the pic but it still can be damaged )ill see if i cant duplicated it on a board to show you what it looks like. yes you can check with a multimeter but i would just wire it up and test i mean whats the worst that can happen it still not work lol BTW you would test CPU_PLL_BYPASS and the inside edge of the resistor right next to it that is where the connection is broken in most cases

Hey, I actually do have connectivity between cpu pll bypass and close edge of the resisitor and nothing else nearby. So your saying even tho I have connectivity I still may have lifted the pad?

I suppose I can try it anyway... tho the spot u need to scrape seems tiny (havent taken my xclamps off yet so dont know for sure but it looks awkward... but the box is dead atm as is and two different xbox repair ppl I googled and emailed arnt responding to me :/ So I might try this and if it doesnt work I may just get the shits and wrap the plastic parts in insulation and throw the thing in the oven for a few mins and see what happens

OP - flash your ecc BACK to your console. Get it booting to XeLL again.

On no account should you be trying to flash 64MB of data over LPT. If you had to dump 4/5 times for a good image, do you really think that you're writing back accurately?

Once you're booting to XeLL, report back.

Hey Martinchris23,

Thanks for the reply, 1st 3 dumps over lpt all match. Tried flashing the ECC several times and it will not boot anymore. Only a black screen and a single green light on the console. If I flash original nand = 3 RROD with 0022.

I have flashed the original nand back to the console and then read it from the console again and it still matches the 1st 3.

I havent had a single non matching block once? So should be all good right?

i fixed a jasper 512mb yesterday, it showed RROD 0022 with stock image but booted instantly when i desoldered a wire (did not matered witch one, i tried one after another). i added a 100nf cap between gnd and F (CPU_PLL_BYPASS) on my matrix and it booted instantly, flashed my ECC and got xell almost instantly. boottime between 5s and 15s everytime.

and i was about to change the glitcher hehe.

Lucky u antalpromille!

I removed all rgh wires and still 0022. I have not yet tried to remove the lpt nand flasher wires. I will desolder them tomorrow after I flash back to stock.

I tried resoldering RGH wires and flashing the ecc again just in case but still no good.

Wow, I must be bad.

Wont even power on now?

I resoldered RGH and flashed ecc and still black screen no glitch, so I flashed stock back and removed rgh expecting 0022 and no power!!

So I flashed back to ecc and left rgh unsoldered just to see if it would power on. Nothing. No fans, no power button. Power brick is orange and I can read/write nand.

Even tho I had continuity between std by clk and the resistor I tried the wire between the trace and the resistor leg just in case (as shown here http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=17051.0). Still no power...

WTF did I do? I dont get it...I just desoldered the wires and flashed the nand (once with stock and once with ecc in case it was a bad flash, both no power) :/ cant see any shorts with mulitmeter or any solder splotches ...

Just thought of something else...

when I plugged in the hdmi cable there was a little spark between console and cable.

Not sure if relivant but I did try to pull the cool runner off. But it did turn on half a dozen times after that...

sorry for all the posts Im talking to myself

Just found that my lpt flasher had a bent pin, straightend it up and just flashed original nand again and back to RROD 0022. I`ll try the wire from pll bypass resistor as previously suggested (tho Im very doubtful it`ll work) and then if still 0022 I`ll try the oven reflow unless anyone has any other ideas?

I'm in the exact same situation. I am getting programming errors while trying to flash nand back to stock and getting 0022 error when turning on. I'm about to desolder all wires and try and see if that helps. I'll report back shortly.

Ok progress!! I de-soldered the RGH cables and took that completely off. Turned it back on and no RROD anymore. I've just restarted flashing the nand back to stock. Heres hoping it gets all the way this time.

So i'm going to have to agree with the others on here and say you have probably lifted a pad slightly on one of the rgh points. Best if you try and get hold of a magnifying glass and have a good inspection of each point just to find which one.

Good luck (I feel your pain!).

Now it's me making all the posts

Ok it flashed back to stock perfectly fine and now boots up normally.

I really dont think I lifted a pad...

As I have continutity from those points but just in case I did lift one I tried the alternate points fix for both pll bypass and stby clk, which I also tested with a multimeter and all good. Dont think any other pads could have an issue. Therefore I dont think its that. Wish it was though!

Tried x clamp fix and with tight screws error 0001 and loose screws still 0022

The one thing that worries me is that I read and flashed nand with 64 when its 512 but everything says that shouldnt matter...

Soo I guess really, I cant find a lifted pad, my nand compares with my 3 original 64 dumps, just leaves standard RROD. So when I ran it for a few mins without fans and it got real hot and crashed with artifacts on screen I guess I stuffed it. No Sydney xbox repair place is responding to me (not many of em and Im pretty sure there are a few dodgy ones around. So I might as well try an oven reflow and if it works all good. If not I`ll have to get a new one. (I wont be RGHing tho )

Mine is also 512 and I did all my nand dumping/flashing for 64 so that shouldn't be a problem. Try turning it on again and leaving it for a while to heat back up (10-15min). Turn it off and let it cool for another 15min and try again. Make sure when doing it that it is on a very flat surface.

i just tried it out on a jasper with no dvd drive and a half pulled point does give you 0022 i am telling you i dont think there is enough signal getting threw on your CPU_PLL_BYPASS . i checked and was still getting connectivity on the points i just dont think it was enough wire up the fix in the noobish F**k up guide using 30AWG wire and it should boot. make sure your using 30AWG though if the wire is too thick you will still get 0022 i know your across the planet from me but if you cant get it sorted you could ship it to me in the US and i can get it sorted for you..btw a messed up STBY_CLK point will just cause the console not to boot at all

I did try the fuck up points thing with an old really thin cable from inside a ide cable...It didnt work

I`ll try it again and see if I can get my friend to bring a better camera on sunday and take some pics... after soo much soldering to the point now it is a little messed up.

Assume that I can solder the wire so it touches both cpu pll bypass and the resistor leg? (as I found that easier)

Wow, I guess I`d have to check out how much the postage would be there and back but a mobo with no case/dvd drive shouldnt be too heavy so who knows price might be worth it.

no see that is what i thought too but you have to use the point under the cpu heatsink the first time it happened it took me 2 days to figure out just wire the point under the heatsink to the outside of the resistor(closest to the CPU_PLL_BYBASS) make sure you use some flux too so you get a solid connection

Yep thats what I did the first time couple of days ago, but I meant that I have the wire from under the heatsink going to both the cpu pll bypass and the close edge of the resistor, as after soldering/desoldering 5 times to that area I now have a solder bridge between cpu pll bypass and the close edge of the resistor. So I just want to solder my wire into that spot as its really easy to do so... But that shouldnt matter right, as there is continuity there any way?

Trying to remove that solder could be a bit dodgy

I will try it a 2nd time tomorrow and take pictures (if my friends camera can zoom in close better than mine can).

One thing I noticed was that the trace under the heatsink wasnt 100% scraped clean so could have affected my 1st attempt. (I was worried about cutting the trace while scraping it).

Hey Guys

I had trouble last couple of days where a Jasper 512 CB 6750 woudn't glitch with the matrix glitcher. I added two different caps 33uF and 472uF(thats all i had) and all i got was blank screen and quite pissed off. I saw a video where a guy get to glitch very slowly where he had a multimeter(turnedoff) and one point on GND and other point was tapping on a cap's ground leg.(other leg of the cap was attached to "F" pin on a matrix glitcher. I am sure some of you seen the video as well. Anywayz i got to glitch very slowly by tapping method(my multimeter was set on ohms) with the 33uF installed. Everytime I stop tapping the screen freezes and if i started tapping again it the screen keeps advancing and i could able to get the cpu key.

Long story short, I made the Freeboot and flashed the nand, but now it wouldn't boot by tapping at all. So tried the 472uF and by tapping method it booted(took quite a few tapping...lol), but once the boot screen shows, insted of tapping just held the tapping point firmly on ground and it will booted fine.

My brain was on over drive, hmmmm I was thinking there must me some resistance through the multimeter, so i added a small resister like 100ohms....inline to the 472uF cap AND......... Voilaaaaa She firedup and running great.

Sorry i haven't tried any different caps or even resistors. which may very well improve the booting time

My booting time 90% to 5 seconds, other times 10 to 15 seconds

I am not sure this is going to help anyone or not.....but it is worth the try.

Installation chat for Matrix Glitcher Follows

pin 'F'-----------472uF-----------100ohm--------GND


Good Luck Guys

Hi all,

I tried the fu$^ points fix again. Still rrod with 0022.
I have managed to take some pictures.
Be aware that I have soldered to these points about a dozen times each trying to get it to work.
Nand is flashed to stock but it still won't boot.
Please see the pictures below. Thanks for any help.



http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464559739/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6461787945/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464507257/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464504395/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464510175/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464513119/

I'm in the same situation. I managed to rip point B pad. Looks like i'm in for a long weekend. I can't flash flash back to stock anymore (programming errors) and I get 0022 error.

hey kormart i can't see those pics you posted it says there private

Sorry guys, it is ok now.

Also, the point under the heatsink currently has alot of solder, but I have tired have a dozen times with much less... couldnt be bothered removing the extra and it doesnt change... still 0022


http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464559739/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6461787945/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464507257/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464504395/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464510175/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6464513119/[/size][/size]

well I had the same problem, but I'm using a stinger, and like you it booted into xell without any problem, but wouldn't boot into ggbuild, I tried to use a few caps with diferent values, and after using a 100 nf cap in line between the stinger and cpu_rst and bam it booted in seconds, unfortunately the boot times are not as good as i wish but is better then nothing.

change up your wire routing.. what you route wires near / sitting on can be causing interference " impedence" in the line use the green light on the maximus stinger as a guide especially cpu rst line.. the brighter it glows the better when glitching if its dimly lit then somethings causing impedence.. I have yet to have to add to a Stinger chip but I have had to add bits and pieces to matrix chips..

boxes i RGH'd that took a added onto matrix booted without addons using a stinger ..

Might have been confusing saying its ok now... I just meant the link to the pics is now working. Still getting 0022 on stock. So, based on the pics, do ppl think its more a standard 0022 problem and I need a reflow/reball. Or is it my soldering on cpu pll bypass? (If the 2nd what should I do differently from the pics?)

Thanks for any help.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/69616491@N05/6461787945/

Just throwing this out there but, In this pic, try unbridged the point from the resistor.

Would that really make a difference as there is supposed to be conectivity between those 2 points right?

I might give it a try on the weekend though.

well the led is glowing fine, and I uploaded a video. When I take off the A\V cable and try to put it back, it glitches.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfvYCSqi2eA...hMyYXWBrGU_DXbT

If you are getting a 0022 on the original stock nand and having all the wires removed then that would suggest an issue with either:

1. The CPU PLL bypass or STBYCLK point
2. Nand image

When you dumped your nand image originally did you verify that you got at least 2 matching dumps and did you dump the full 512MB of the NAND? If you did in fact dump the full 512MB and they are 100% matching dumps then it should be a valid image as it was working fine before you started the RGH glitch right?

If you are really stuck and just can't get yourself out of shite creek without a paddle then I run a console modding service in Sydney and my website is http://www.consoleme.webs.com. Contact me via my website and I can see what I can do for you.

I have had quite a few people come to me after botched RGH attempts and knock on wood I have been able to get them out of strife so far.