Hello all. Been years since I've posted, but I've recently gotten into RGH modding. I bought the x360 glitch chip:

http://x360glitch.com/

Which was on sale for $10 at the time. It was a damned good deal, only problem was it was the slim version of the chip, which meant there was a lot I had to solder/desolder to the thing (according to this guide):

http://www.elotrolado.net/hilo_tutorial-gu...-jasper_1688299

So I killed C1b, put a 100nf capacitor on C1A, 22K resistor on R2A, and 1K resistor on R1A. Bridged the two points next to C1A. Per user Pudrik's advice on xbox-hacker :

http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=...30168#msg130168

I put a wire between the one peg on IC2 to the + terminal of D3A, and the other two switching diodes in the series I used a straight wire instead.

Booted in 50 seconds the first three times and now boots in 10-15 minutes. What can I do? (besides buy a new chip of course).

You can try adding a 680pf - 1nf cap 'tween CPU_PLL and ground and/or a 470pf cap inline in CPU_RST. Works well on problem jaspers.

I may be a bit of a noob, but which point is CPU_PLL exactly?

I have the wiring diagram here:

Edit: nevermind, I am slightly retarded. On the underside of the board. Since I have that point nice and hotglued down, I will add it where the wire connects to my glitch chip.

'sokay. I went thru school telling everyone I was fire-retardant, but I mis-heard my doctor. It was supposed to be "fairly retarded".


Edit: one more thing. Try using switched 3.3v instead of 3.3v standby for the chip. They sometimes work better from a cold-start.

What do you mean by switched 3.3v?

Also, I shortened the wires going to ground and 3.3v. This...this wouldn't cause any difference would it? I mean...it shouldn't just being the power source and the ground right? I wanted it to look better inside the case, so it now fits neatly under the dvd drive next to the white plastic. I know some people have had success on slims by lengthening the wires (which seems crazy, but signal degradation and yada yada).

Also, not sure if my local radioshack will have capacitors that low in farads. Of course radioshack has them all in microfarads, so I have to convert them every time

3.3v standby is an "always-on" power source, switched means it turns on when the console does. I believe J2B1.8 is switched power, but check for sure. Power/ground wire length won't effect performance.

I couldn't do a 470pF capacitor as the local radioshack had nothing close. All they had was 4700pf and 100pf. I bought them both of course in case either are close to useful. I tested using the switched power and the 1nF capacitor attached to CPU_RST. Times are as follows:

Edit: it...wont boot. I tried twice and as soon as the timer went over 20 minutes I stopped it. What on earth went wrong? I added a 1nf capacitor to the line going to CPU_RST before it reached the chip. Is that not what you described?

With just the power lead switched to the switched power (you were right, J2B1.8 was switched), Times were:

1. 3:56.5
2. 14:52.4
3. 17.44.0

Edit2: It ended up very much so not liking J2B1.8 so I soldered back to 1.7. For some very strange reason the xbox stopped powering up after a while using 1.8.

Now with it soldered back to the normal spot it's randomly shutting off. WTH is going on? I'm going to guess it has something to do with the CPU_PLL line so I'm going to use the alternative solder point. I must have yanked it or something.

EDIT: I meant CPU_PLL every time I mentioned CPU_RST

So apparently I just couldn't visualize what it was that I was supposed to try. Stumbled upon this post on libxenon:

http://libxenon.org/index.php?topic=199.msg1145#msg1145

Which had a nice wiring diagram. I'm using alternatives for CPU_PLL and STBY_CLK as I think I might have yanked the two points while frantically trying to manipulate my chip. Will update later tonight.

360 now refuses to boot. I don't even...

At first while recently using the glitch chip, i only added 1nf capacitor to the wire CPU_PLL. After one 20 minute run proved to be unsuccessful, I disconnected the capacitor and just had the straight wire going to the glitch chip. I then tried to run this and see how long it would take. Thing turned off on me randomly. Tried it again, same thing. Then it wouldn't power up. Unplugged it, tried again and it lasted a while but then shut off.

So today I try to rewire the chip using alternatives. Xbox wont turn on. Now it just sits there. How can I trouble shoot it not turning on?

It would be nice if Xbox-scene didn't have a retarded time limit on editing.

So it appears that I lifted a trace by STBY_CLK, which caused my "xbox wont boot ever again" type deal. Soldered a wire down, good as new. That is an awful place to solder to the STBY_CLK point. There is a much better one on the bottom of the board.

I used the new diagram, and it appears I really do need to try a 680pf capacitor. 1nf does not work. I put the 470 pf cap in the CPU_RST line but it doesn't seem to have made a difference.