Hello everybody,

Noob alert

I bought a RGH BB jasper off of the forums here from someone and well.... It doesnt work very well. First couple weeks it would take forever to boot and sometimes freeze on dash and xbox logo. Now it wont boot at all, it sits there with 1 green light, the fans turn on, the coolrunner has one solid red light, and it sounds like a car engine revving. its got a capacitor hooked up to GND and A on the coolrunner. I've tried moving wires and the soldering looks really good. So from my research, i guess the next thing to try would be to reflash the nand? If anyone has any other ideas I'm all ears.

But my original question was:

If I wanted to reflash my nand, What type of cable do I need or can I make? I have the coolrunner installed with nand-x QSBs and i was confused about whether to make a Xilinx LPT to go to the coolrunner if I can read/flash the nand from that. Or if I could make an LPT to go straight to the nand-x thing somehow. I just dont want to buy a CK3 or whatever it is.

I'm hoping I can fix it myself rather than sending it back to the person who performed the hack.

All help Is Much Appreciated THX!

For lpt just follow one of the plenty available guides on how to make the lpt with just diodes/resistors. Then follow one of the plenty available guides on how to solder things up to jtag. You won't need the jtag points, just the points on the mobo with the through holes in double rows. You don't use the coolrunner at all for nand ops., and the qsb's hopefully won't get in the way. If you can, throw the qsb's in the garbage, that is where they belong.

As far as your BB Jasper, you shouldn't of bought that. It is the most problematic of all RGH boxes currently, trust me, I own one. That is for future reference of course, because you have one. So you could reflash the nand, but it sounds as if you might have the wrong .jed/.xsvf flashed to the coolrunner. If you don't, read one of the available guides on how to customize your own .jed file. Also you could play around with some different capacitors of different values, this is where I would start if I was you, with the capacitors.

If none of that helps, try the xecuter forums, there is much more detail on the coolrunner there. The coolrunner is a great product, so you choose wisely there. The qsb's however, well those just complicate things like most qsb's in the game console world. The Cygnos v2 for Xbox 360 had a logical qsb approach, all the other ones I have seen just make things harder.

BTW, I assume the switch is set to FAT on the coolrunner?

Good luck.

Yes, the swithces on the coolrunner are set to FAT and NOR. I've messed with all different switch settings. Yea I guess I'll try to tinker with the capacitors next. I thought it was interesting that all the pictures of the recommended capacitors show a blue 68nf i guess, but the one my guy installed is an orange one kind a similar in size but i dunno exactly what number it is. Could I maybe find a cap similar to those off an old xbox1 or 360 mobo or maybe a different device? I'll probably just go to radio shack, but if I can find it around the house then that's better.

Also, could this have happened because I was using my internal memory? I read that using internal memory can corrupt things, but I also read that the problem may have been fixed with newer versions of dashlaunch. I'm using dashlaunch 2.26.

I'm just lookin for the easiest and quickest way to fix this issue, obviously. I know it will probably end up otherwise, but everybody's help and input is much appreciated.

Some "problem" jaspers seem to work with 100nf cap, you'll have to experiment to find the best one for your jasper.

It just seems weird to me that for the 1st 2 weeks I had it, the console worked fairly well. I could play skyrim for hours on end. And In a period of a few days it would boot less and less until the point we're at now where it won't boot at all.

Yesterday in 1 out of like 30 tries, the console did start but froze almost immediately when the xbox logo appeared.

Possibly the motherboard was not mounted properly and the generated heat has caused some flex? If that could be the case, better fix that asap.

I really don't think thats the case. Manufactured 2010 and i've disassembled and reassembled a couple times to make sure it looks right.

I guess we've narrowed it down to: capacitors, or programming of the coolrunner.

I just went to Fry's and bought a bunch of capacitors, so I'll try those first. then go from there.

I just wish the guy I bought the console from would've done a more consistent job rather than rushing it out. ABRUTE

Note it in his thread, just to give others warning.