I have a jasper 512. I dumped 2 64meg dumps they matched open fine in Flash Tool. I have created a .ecc with every method. literally. Manual and every automated one I can find. When I flash a .ecc to the box I get no power what so ever. It is a 6751 and I used even tried with donor 6750 same no power issue. Any ideas would be great.

What command are you using to write the .ecc file and did you get any errors?
Also double check your wiring and solder points.
Whats the coulor of the light on the power brick? Should be orange when off or green when on, if its red there is a problem somewhere.
A short on the stby clk can cause no power, check you are not bridging between the two points. Or you have soldered to the correct point.

All you can do is double check the wiring/points and then check again and again.

most likely a STBY_CLK issue but dicko is right if you use -w instead of +w it can cause that issue try to rewrite your 64mb dump back to the console and rewrite the ecc with this command nandpro usb: +w64 image_00000000.ecc

you have to write your original dump back to the console first

did u run any of the wires under the mobo close to the leads for the magnetic coil on the top side of the board, that will prevent the console from doing anything. simply moving the wires away from teh magnets can fix it.

I am using Kippers alt point for Hana not the top point, so bridging is not an issue:

I wouldn't use that alt point, I've always had problems with it myself.

never had a problem with it myself as long as you insulate the ALt jtag point right next to it you should be ok if you hit the alt point for jtagging though it will cause boot issues and random shutdowns thinking about it that could very well be your problem

We are talking about jaspers here lol, i've used it successfully for other models, but jaspers just seem to be a bitch. I always keep wires as short as possible too, so the top side connections work out shorter.
At the end of the day all he can do is try every variation untill it works.
Most of the questions in this forum about RGH can be solved if all the tutorials didnt just say, put this wire here this wire here, etc, as every box is different in my opinion. They should have all the possibilities, and warnings attached.
Should also say for the newbie dont even attempt it, just to pay someone to do it for you, far fewer headaches.
Xbox's that are the same model type even have different components on board, its like when they were manufactured they just used what ever they had lying around lol, probs to save a few $'s after the RROD fiasco.

Was the +w option, thanks for that! Still having hell of a time getting anything to boot but I got power back!

Has anyone been using Kipper2K's newest board revision? I have an older board of his and it glitches my
system fine but the newer one wont, not sure whats happening but reading something about now also need
to apply 1.8v from the motherboard?

"Because the 1.8v regulator is no longer on the Glitch board you just need to run a wire from the 1.8v regulator on the 360 motherboard to the glitch board."

I think this may be my overall issue but I was from the understanding that the 1.8 added pad was only
used in programming? The red line I have not been conencting only the tan ones, beginning to think this
is needed as well?