Hi guys,just need a bit of help on trying to de-solder the Nand and Jtag pin header holes on my 360 board.
I've tried using de-solder braid with flux but on some of the holes i can't get all the solder out,i've even filed down a spare soldering iron tip so it's to a fine point and pushes through through the holes.My sodering iron is a new 15watt one.
I'm quite good when it comes to soldering (fitted the Nand-X QSB's no problem at all) but trying to clear the solder outta these holes is giving me nighmares lol

You may have to use a solder sucker. But honestly, why are you trying to remove all the solder?

As long as you got the header out, there is no harm in leaving solder in the holes.

I'm trying to get the solder out so i can then solder in the Nand-x programmer pin headers.This is my other Jtaggable Xenon board that i have.I've already done the first one using the Nand-x Programmer QSB's and was a total success.
All i want to do is get these pin headers soldered in but the solder in these holes has to removed first.

Your 15 watt soldering iron is not powerful enough. It can't get to the temperatures needed to make Un-Leaded solder melt.

You will need a 50 watt soldering iron. These usually come in a station style. Brands that make them - Weller, Hakko, Saike, Auyoue, Kada, - Radio Shack might have one

Proper soldering / de-soldering means that whatever the blend of solder - it has to become liquid like when heat is applied. All the different alloys have different melting points. The process should always happen smoothly. If not - the temperature of the iron is too low.

You will also need good flux, 60/40 lead solder, and a copper de-soldering braid. And an underside heating tray can be very helpful.

So don't force the use with the 15 watt iron. You won't get anywhere - end up damaging your console.

You'll have to purchase better tools to do this style of jtag

wilgo45, is correct in saying you need a better solder iron which would be the station style. Less heat drop off when making contact, and maintaining constant heat when applied.

For what you want to do you can invest in a hakko desolder gun which is solder iron combo with a vacuum pump so it melts the solder and can be quick sucked up with the vacuum. Hakko, Xytronic, and other make this type. Or you can invest in a desolder station which does the same thing except its in wand form, not pistol style. Up to you.

USE WIRES

USE FLUX

a better soldering iron is recommended, i personally spend $500 on mine you can get away with a cheapo iron if you use lead solder, flux, and wires rather than pins

so again use wires

if that doesnt work try wires

if your still having trouble use the wires

Thanks indeed,guys.I've dug out my other soldering iron ( 30watts ) gonna give that a try and see how it goes to un-block these pin header holes.If it still can't do it,my mate has a proper soldering station which i'll ask him if he'll do it for me.
But a massive big thanks for all help and tips :)

At first i was using cat5 solid core wire and just heated the solder and pushed them in, since getting a nand-x in march last year i now use header pins (seperately no plastic ) and have squid connectors on the nand-x wires for quick hookup.
I leave the pins in place as you never know when a corrupted nand will appear and you have to re flash especially if its someone elses.