The project to remove the triggers and replace them with switches was far more about stress on my old-man finger joints than anything else!

I built one with a DIP last year- without messing with the triggers and bumpers; which used momentary push-buttons for the extra buttons. Frankly I never liked the feel or response of that type of button. These sub-miniature microswitches take very little force to operate and never fail to work properly.

It does mean I can aim and shoot quicker; only time will tell how much that matters!

Original shoulder buttons now emulate the Back (left, for BF) and R-stick (right) buttons.

The buttons underneath can be set to emulate RB, RS, X, Y, A, B, LB, LS.

I had originally intended to replace the D-pad and face buttons with microswitches too... but decided I couldn't be bothered. Next project me thinks.

cool controller but why is there 3 cables to each button ?

Without taking it apart it is hard to remember what I did So I shall have guess.

I shall assume you are talking about the 3 wires to each plug. I use plugs so I can remove the board from the shell with out desoldering or putting stress on the wires/joints.

There are two triggers, two new bumpers and two extra buttons. (I think) the middle plug carries common line, and both extra switches. The left plug carries LB to the new LB, common line isn't on the plug, it also carries positive and negative from the trigger pot to the new non-analogue trigger. The right plug works the same as the left.

I didn't get notification of replies, which is why didn't reply sooner.