Apr 1 2012, 04:26 PM
Question I have a samsung drive I have been using trunicated method from my orignals forever but have been checking topology data with newer games that have been released with abgx. From what I know my samsung doesn't read the ap 2.5 nor does it read the topology data correct so this drive I have no need to re-rip and reburn disc and trunciated disc should work fine.
However my kids have liteon drive and another liteon drive as well. All these disc have been trunicated as well from my originals but have been checking the disc through abgx lately. My question is do these have to be re-ripped and burned if only if have the wrong topology data or if it is trunicated will it cause problems as well. Will the problems only occur after updated to the latest dash think all the dashes are on 13599 I believe. Should I switch to the ihas burner going forward and if so why.
I was thinking if samsung has no issues just swapping the lite on drives out for samsungs since there are no issues with those drives.
Apr 2 2012, 04:51 AM
1; Samsungs don't do AP2.5, but truncating is still stupid
2; you can't just "swap out" a LiteOn for a Samsung to avoid dealing with AP2.5/XGD3. Spoof=fail, and it won't work, anyway.
The thread of advice throughout this is to put in the necessary effort to do it right. Cheap work-arounds will only cause you more headache in the long-run. Re-rip your originals, and re-burn your backups with a BurnerMax-flashed iHAS burner on Verbatims.
Yeah, I know, it's a black-and-white, party-line answer, but it's the best advice possible. Hope it helps!
Apr 2 2012, 05:13 AM
Pretty sure that you don't spoof drives anymore, and they still work that was with the latest firmware the last time I did this deal. You don't spoof you just flash the drive. Pretty sure I am correct on that. This if for offline only we have other 360's for online play so is trunicating still stupid?
Apr 2 2012, 06:22 AM
The method you're talking about for "just swapping" the drive only works on consoles that don't have a defined OSIG. Those are only older consoles, Xenons and Falcons that came with Samsung and older Hitachi. I've never seen a non-OSIG-defined BenQ or LiteOn.
And, yes, truncating is still stupid.
Apr 2 2012, 03:19 PM
Thanks for the input, that would make sense I did it with a samsung to a hitachi motherboard so I guess that is why that would work. Well does the issue with tunicated only take effect with the new dash update or is it a may have issues in the future thing.
I guess I will see what the other person wants to do reburn or play what can for now and burn with ihas for them in future. What is the exact issue with using trunicated disc rather than is stupid?
Apr 3 2012, 04:06 AM
Ok, I'm at work, so most of the sites I would use as reference are blocked, but it breaks down something like this:
XDG3 uses topology data spanning the entire data surface of the disc, including the outer edge that is normally inaccessible to burners. Truncating unceremoniously lops off any data outside of that writeable range and just ends the disc there.
Now, I can't remember if this next bit was just rumor/panic, but I remember a credible source stating that if a disc fails enough of those checks, it will disable the console's ability to play games. Period. Offline or not.
Now, yes, this would imply that the only consoles susceptible to this are consoles with drives that support XGD3, and so Sammy and sub-78 Hitachis are safe. To me, it still seems like a terrible idea; especially since it wouldn't be hard (I imagine) for publishers to start putting actual game data in that area of the disc, instead of just AP stuff. Keep in mind that we are now fully in the realm of conjecture, and I have no evidence that this can or will happen.
That being said, the hardware, software, media, and techniques are all readily available to make full backups of XDG3 discs, so, in my idealistic little universe, anything less is simply being overly lazy, cheap, and asking for problems in the future. The burners are not $100/ea, and the media is less than $3/disc. It is worth it, in my mind, to protect a $250 console and each $60 game disc as perfectly as possible. Anything less, to sum up, is stupid. But it is ultimately your stuff, or whoever's stuff you are working with, so it is your choice (their choice) what to do with it. And that's really what the scene is all about. People choosing what they want to do with their stuff.
Hope that clarifies my position. Take it easy!
Apr 3 2012, 06:30 PM
Ok thanks for you input that was very detailed and helpful.
I already have an ihas 224b burner bought months ago when the Forza problem started and is flashed but having trouble getting it to work will link my other post for that if you have any input on that.http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=741984
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