Hey everyone. Thought I would post my walk-through on how to modify your controller similar to a Scuf controller. I haven't actually seen a scuf controller in person but didn't have the cash to drop on one to try it out so I thought I would try a go at it myself. I had a junk controller as you can see in the pics and figured what the heck.

Parts needed.

• 4-40 set screws Qty 2
• 4-40 Hex head screw Qty 2
• 4-40 Flat head screw Qty 2
• 4-40 Tap
• Drill bit for 4-40 non tapped hole
• Drill bit for underside button holes
• Drill
• Soldering iron
• Solder
• Wire (I use old FDD and HDD cables)
• Tactile switches with long post Qty 2
• Lexan strip or sheet
• Sandpaper (I use 320 grit)
• hex wrenches
• T8 Torx driver
• Wired or Wireless 360 controller
• Nail or some form of punch
• PS3 style thumb stick

Step 1: Take the controller apart. I'm not going into details on this since there are tons of guides on this.

Step 2: adding set screws and trigger stops

Remove the lower shell and find the indentation for the trigger buttons on the inside towards the center. This is where we are going to drill the holes for the set screws. The set screws themselves push against a flat area on the triggers. As you turn the screw in this pushes the trigger down allowing you to set its rest position. Use your punch tool to mark an area so the outside edge of the drilled hole will be at the lowest indention. See the following picture for details.



Once the hole is drilled use the 4-40 tap to cut threads in the hole. Be sure to cut them from the front of the controller face.



Now mark a spot to drill on the trigger buttons bottom with the punch or nail to drill a hole for the stops. I did this at the bottom of the trigger where there is a flat spot but still placed it towards the front of the trigger. Note you do not need to remove the trigger. My triggers were already drilled so I grabbed a spare one for this tutorial.




Drill out the hole and tap it.



Step 3 Bottom buttons.

I'm not going to go into detail on this too much since there are tutorials out there on adding buttons to the bottom of the xbox controller.

You need to drill 4 holes. The two at the top are drilled and tapped for 4-40

The bottom needs to be drilled out to allow the tactile switch posts through.

Distance between the holes should allow enough room for the lexan paddle to come into contact with the switch easily.



Step 4 under paddles.

Cut 2 lexan strips 11/32 x 2"1/8. Sand the edges smooth and round the ends with sandpaper. Also here's a tip if you want super smooth plastic. Perform a final sand of the lexan with fine steel wool. Wet the steel wool if you want a slicker surface.

Sand one end of the lexan strip so it has a flat angle on it. This will raise the paddle above the tactile switch when screwed into place Once complete drill a hole in with the bit used for the tactile switches.

NOTE: If you wanted you could add a second hole below the first and use 2 flat head screws to secure the paddles more securely.

Also I used lexan since it is not prone to breaking when flexed.



Step 5 Putting it all together.

Reassemble the controller. if you like you can install a PS3 style thumbstick on the right analog and remove the rumble packs

Bottom



Prior to inserting the setscrews sand the bottom to remove the cutting lip of the screw. This helps prevent damage where they come into contact with the trigger



Front assembled




Step 6. Adjust the controller to your liking and have fun.

Total cost for the mods were around $8 for parts I didn't have.

Hey thanks for that. very kool. i had to Google scuf controller. Had no idea what they were.. what exactly does the set screw do. what does it effect when its adjusted?

Turning the setscrew in moves the trigger in. Basically allows you to remove the deadspace of the trigger before it firds on some FPS games. The screws on the bottom of the trigger stop it from going all the way in so you are only using that sweet spot space when firing.

question... where can you get lexan strips?

Home depot has em cheap..

or any supply store that sells lexan window panels.

just have to get the right size.

and those look like 1/8.

Does anyone know the length of the three different screw types used in this guide?

4-40 set screws
4-40 Hex head screw
4-40 Flat head screw

Thanks!

I use .25" screws. They set screws can be shorter though. I just went with what my local hardware store had.

I have also changed a few things from this inital post from using the controller. I will get some pics and add a reply with the information.

Also a few have asked and I will not perform this mod on a controller for money. The information here was meant to be a DIY tool. If you want to pay someone to mod your controller just send it to Scuf.

Excellent job!! Could you put links where to buy the parts? For example ebay?? Here in my country its difficult to find them and I would like to make one of these controllers

Thanks for that tutorial. I just ordered a scuf controller, but it won't be in for a few weeks, so I decided to mod my current controller, and it works great. I'll post pictures later. Thanks again.

I found this site, but searching the vastness of google for an elegant trigger stop. I think this will do the trick, but I cant see any pictures. (so I dont know how it would actually look, but I can use my imagination. lol)

Thanks for posting this write up. its easy to follow and well written.

Did mine just based on looking at the pictures on the Scuf website. Works very well, just adds a louder click to your triggers (people were complaining on live). Total cost for the trigger mods were 32 cents! Only takes 20 minutes if you have the right tools. Good tut btw. Just fix the picture links, or if you dont mind I can throw some on. I apologize if the picture is a monster. Testing posting from an iPhone 5.

Great thread, like the above post said the pictures are down. Xandrel, if you don't post them here could you PM me some pictures?

Bonjour a tous
je n'arrive pas a voir les photos
pouvez vous m'aider svp

merci d'avance

with pictures ---> http://over30clan.forumotion.com/t5927-mak...roller-xbox-360

Hi,

With the original tutorial above by OP, it seems to somehow skip the section on how the triggers can be set (using the x2 grub screws beside the triggers) all it indicates it how to sand down the grubs but that's it, hence why im kind of confused.

Xandrel (or anyone else who has done the adjustable trigger setting) if possible could you please provide some help on how you implemented your ones by any chance, only asking as I want to give this a go (just the trigger adjustable setting not the stoppers ) please let me know. (pictures would help or a sideline tutorial just showing how the grubs were fitted internally/externally would also be appreciated)

Cheers,

Matt

Hello i am kind of new around here i was curious where abouts the soldering points were for the A button to add a paddle to the right handside of my controller. Also i was wondering on the actual Tactile switch it has 4 legs/prongs which legs/prongs do the 2 wires go onto ? Much appreciated in advance regards Vibe

If you look at the tutorials section at the top of the forum threads, you will find all kinds of information about controllers. Welcome to the forums.

Pics should be back now. Sorry my web server was down. I have revised this a bit and the latest ones are better than my prototype above. I also use nuts on the inside so the paddles don't strip. This causes issues with some controllers since you have to relocate elec components to make room.

I'd be really interested to see some pics of your revised controllers. Using your tutorial I made one of my own, so thank you!

I would also like to see the re-done ones myself.

I'm going to do this, replace analogs with PS2 ones for better reliability, and maybe add another set of buttons somewhere.

Also I own a scuf controller and anybody with trigger stops will notice how noisy and well painful they are so I'd recommend getting some o-rings and attaching them to your screws! Its so stupidly simple I'm surprised this isn't included with the actual scuf controllers...

OK some updates to this....

First of all it is nice this tutorial has been used. When I wrote this there was only one video on youtube describing how to make a Scuf style controller. That video was only about adding HUGE buttons to the bottom, not adding trigger stops or paddles. Now there are many of them and a few you can tell they followed this tutorial. Also I've seen this tutorial posted on a few other sites as well. It's nice DIY people are able to mod something that they may not be able to afford otherwise.

All screws are 4-40 by 1/4 long.

I now move the switches up higher. They are basically slightly above the screw in the battery compartment for reference. This allows the chat pad adapter to fit. This also lets the left switch fit in the corner of the D pad support so you don't have to file it down. I've seen people cutting the support off and I don't know why you would do something to make the D pad worse than it already is.


I also sand the bottom switches down to where they are just outside the surface of the controller. This requires less flex of the paddles which would crack over time and keeps the paddles closer to the body so you don't accidentally hit them when setting the controller down.




As stated previously, I have added nuts to the inside. At the top most screw for each paddle. My personal controller stripped out and I did this as a makeshift fix and started adding it to others I've done. Originally I used spring nuts (the one on the right) but found they would stay opened up after a few times defeating the purpose. So I started using a standard nut. This causes issues with the CG2 controller. The CG2 has part of it's RF components in this location. I ended up moving mine out of the way. Once I attach the paddles I cover the nuts in hotglue






I also added a second screw below the first. This keeps the paddles from rotating when tightening them down.

Under the paddle screw heads you can see plastic washers, this allows me to loosen the screws and pivot the paddles slightly left or right based on user preference.



Also since some may ask, the white paddles in this pic are actually cut from an old xbox case I had given to me. I wanted to mix it up a bit since this controller has a black and white theme to it. Also the bottom of the controller is covered with duplicolor Truck bed liner. My hands sweat when I play and all paints I tried would rub off. I used a rubber coating and it would dent easily. The truck coating has held up for now. if you are spraying it on a white controller I recommend using black vinyl paint over it first.

very nice work. and thanks for tutorial. Since reading the original post on how to make a scuff controller, I am actually attempting to make one for myself. I have seen a few youtube videos on how to make a home version. but i dont like the idea of "scraping the black pads" to solder the wire under the buttons.. Is there any chance there is a wiring diagram on where the solder points are so i can solder it to the back of the board?? Or does anyone here have a picture of where the soldering points are??

Thanks in advance... Great forum by the way..

ReLaPse, RDC has a ton of PCB layouts/mappings you can find in the pinned topic at the top "Faq, Tutorials, Guides, And Other Information", you need to determine what type of board you have so you can figure out which board layout you need to look at and the TP points it will utilize. A combo of this tutorial and the mappings from RDC helped me make my own.



My hands are slightly larger so I have my paddles pointing inward to make them more ergonomically comfortable for me.

Just to confirm, the Lexan strips are 1/8" thick, correct?

I bought an 8" x 10" Lexan sheet from Lowes, it's actually .093", which I think is considered a nominal 1/8" thickness.

Thanks!

After reading this post I tried the adjustable trigger mod with some screws from an old, dead, xbox controller... works like a charm and it was FREE!

As long as you put the screws in the right place and they have more of a flat bottom (not a sharp point like a wood or drywall screw) they'll do the job. The socket set screw and such just make it look "pretty" and more of an "official" Scuf, but if it works dude, use what you have. I coincidentally work at a place that sells all the screws and tools needed (Industrial tool supplier), so I was able to get all the screws and tools for basically nothing.