Hi all.

I’m trying to make my zephyr CB 4578 box RGH with no luck using this chip

And this is my story:
At start my console was 9199 dash.
I dump my NAND 3 times (hade one BB 0X1B5 all times)
Solder the chip use this diagram

Make .ecc file with 360 Multi Builder v0.93 and write to console.
Write FW (zephyr.xsvf) to chip from this file:

Solder the chip to xbox, turn it on and…. NOTHIG – only solid green light.
This is what I tried already:
1. Write ecc file again.
2. Re-Program chip again.
3. Check with AV \ HDMI cables
4. Check wiring (re-solder all points over 3 times)
5. Jumpering on x360glich:
a. Jumper R3 only
b. Jumper slim points (near C5) + R3
c. Jumper Slim points only
d. De-jumpering slim + R3 points

Because the chip don’t have led Every time I turned the console I tried to hear the sound of “ticking” of the chip \ cpu \ fans – NOTHIG

Please help?

Return the chip to default configuration, then try this.

Add a capacitor of a value between 680pf to 100nf from points J4A and J1(I normally just use 100nf or 68nf), then also have a capacitor of around 470pf at point J6, at the other end of the cap solder the Cpu reset wire.

A way to test if soldering is good is to write back the original nand, 1st 50 blocks should do (nandpro usb: -w16 nand.bin 50 0) then disconnect ground from the gltich chip and boot the xbox, it should boot with no errors, if you get the xbox to boot, then reconnect the ground, flash the .ecc file with the +w16 command and try again.

Your bad block should not interfere with the gltich as its outside the first 50 blocks.

To add a LED to the chip try this http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/507/ledsw.jpg/ its LED, resistor then wire to grnd. Measure the voltage across the points to work out the resistor value http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

I would advise switching to a coolrunner chip or similar as they are far superior that these chips, there is even a gltich chip II now too.

Hope this helps you out, happy gltiching.

Hi,
Thanks for your replay.
but as far as I read this a solution for slim ...

is there another idea?

Nope caps like this are for Phats, even Team Xecuter website reccomends 68nf cap if your having difficulty. Zephyrs are hard to glitch anyways matey.

Thanks I\ll give it a shot.

BTW
does the wires long have importance?

and about the chip - only short R3 ?

The length of wire shouldnt be a problem if you try these 2 caps. They help stabalize the signal.

Yes only short R3 as in the diagram http://www.x360glitch.com/images/glitchfat.jpg

try using j-runner? i had a zephyar that wasnt glitching with the regular files from tx site. no led on the chip. then I flashed it with j-runner and it started working. dunno how/why

Hi,
I returned the board to default (only R3)
tried the following:
1. add 100nf points J4A with 470pf at point J6 => NO SUCEESS
2. add 68nf points J4A with 470pf at point J6 => NO SUCEESS

Next step?

BTW
1. I bought 220nf \ 330nf \ 390nf \ 500nf \ 680nf also - can something help
2. maybe RGH2 can help (can this be apply on this chip)?

I'd check over the glitch chip first and see if any components are not soldered correctly. You could also bypass the diodes and connect it directly to capacitor C5B6 (the side closest to the CPU and GPU) for a more stable volage i think its around 1.8volts.

But to be honest I'd just get a TX coolrunner or another glitch chip with a LED and better components.

Post some pics of your wiring and soldering too I may see something you have missed.

Maybe voltages are my problem?
Can this be my solution ?
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=738658



sorry but I didn't understand, what to add where?



I forgot to buy a LED when I bought the caps but I have old PC case - can I take the power led from it and solder to the 360glitch like in the diagram you sent me (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/507/ledsw.jpg) ?










!!! I must beat this box !!!

And Thanks again that you helping me

#1 - That chip is the worst i've ever come across.

#2 - Not one of your soldered joints on the chip are done in any acceptable fashion, they look like hell, sorry to tell you.

#3 - because of the hot glue, we can't even see the other joints.

#4 - That chip is the worst i've ever come across, heh, truth.

The capacitor is circled, then where the arrow is pointing to, is where you would solder the wire to. You would have to look on the glitch chip and find where the end of the voltage pulldown chain is, buy the looks of it its some where around where the resistor R1A is. Or maybe just at the point where the last diode is.

But to be honest I'd try and remove that glue first as there is no way to tell or test if your soldering or connections are good. This may be hard without pulling off components, heat up the glue first with a heat gun, then use solvent to clean up after. You might be best trying the alternate point for a few of the points first, this will save you destroying the xbox whist removing the glue.

Your soldering looks pretty bad too, I'd have another go at a few of the connections and try cleaning the glitch chip up with a bit of solvent. Is the brown marks burns or flux? because if its burns then you may of burnt a trace.

Do you have any means of testing continuity? like a multimeter? Because you could do with testing all points and even the Glitch chip.

Where are you located? I dont mean to be unkind but you may be best sending this to someone who knows a bit more than you do, and who has a bit better equipment and experience.

Hi Dicko316 & Takashi

First,
Many thanks for helping me with this.

Second,
I know this chip is crap but this is what my brother bought.
I think I’m starting to take this RGH personally (this is for private use and not for business so I have "time") and I MUST BEAT THIS BOX .
The chip looks like this because it made by very low material and as you can see I made a lot of tests with caps & wires… but I don’t think (hope so) that this is not my problem.
Because I already solder all points 2 times I don’t think they are my problem (Unless I soldered to wrong points)

I’m not “formal electronic technician” but I’m doing my best, I already:
* JTAGED 2 consoles (Falcon \ Jasper)
* connect 3.5" hdd to Xenon box without connectors - solder Sata cable to board...
* solder some JIGs for Galaxy S phones
Everything worked at first shot (there I used hot glue too).

I do have multimeter, but to be honest I don’t know how to use it for professional use I use it most of time to check shorts…

Third,
I had a tough but I can find someone that confirm or reject it...
My original dash was 9199, and on it I write the ecc file. (BTW the ecc files that generate from “best pig ecc generator” & “360 Multi Builder v0.93” was different in FC /B command – right now I’m using the ecc from the “360 Multi Builder v0.93”)

and my question is:

Is there any connection between the original dash ver and the ecc file? - If yes, maybe my problem is that the 9199 is not supported by this ecc file and I need first update my orig dash to 14699 make dumps, generate ecc (tell me what app to use) and write it to box, and them everything will work like charm? ?????


I will be very happy if you will send me tasks and I’ll report back with answers, so In what direction you think that I need to start?

Thanks again.

I fully understand you ending up getting emotionly involved in a project, untill you have it beat, it happens to me all the time and thats what I love about modding consoles. But applying the hotglue straight away i think you may of just messed up big style.

The two points that are the most problematic are points C3B2 (right pad, near HANA chip) and CPU_PLL_BYPASS under R7R17 (under CPU), if you have the wire even slightly off then it just doesn't glitch.
If any or both of these are messed up then your going to have to remove that glue, and i think you are going to have a nightmare trying to remove it, probably irreparable damage.

I'd even check your X-clamp replacement washers and screw are not shotring something out, I had one Xbox where the heatsink was grounding out because the washer was touching the Motherboard. Maybe try some plastic washers.

You could use the multimeter set to measure resistance, from an alternate point to the gltich chip, you are looking for a reading of 0 or near to 0. But this wont show if you have a short between your point and another one close to it.

No offence but next time I'd advise you get the system up and running first then secure it after with glue when you know 100% its good. Also comparing this to a JTAG mod is a bit soft as this is way harder to achieve than a jtag mod. There are so many points that can cause problems, then there is wire length, thickness, caps, voltages, interfearence from onboard caps etc etc....

I'm sorry to say this but you maybe best just selling it on and trying again on another Xbox but with a better gltich chip, or just buy a pre modded one.

Hi,

I used command "nandpro usb: -w16 nand.bin 0 50"
for update my console to 14699

BUT now I have this rrod:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-22%2018.35.29.jpg

I only disconnected the GRD point on the chip (all the caps are still no it).

Should I try to take off all the chip???

Thanks.

Its looking more and more like the CPU_PLL_BYPASS point, i'd try removing the glue from there, dont just try pulling it off heat it up till its taccy/soft then gently try removing it. Then once its all removed de-solder that point and try booting again, if it boots then thats your problem, try a bit of electicians tape over the points you dont want to touch. Like my picture below.



The point you would solder to is where the arrow is pointing and the red line is the route you would put the wire. This avoids the problem areas above this where the onboard caps are too.

Hi.

I remove everything from board (glitch \ wire) and right now when I power the box after 15 sec. it give me the 3rrod like in the pic, after 2-3 Min the right,down led is turning off and only 2 left stay blinking...

I think that my FT6U7 point are ruined because I can't placed a soldering on it..
I do can "stuck" a thin wire in it.

Anyhow I can't even take my console back to "original" life...

Take a look here on how to repair a few different points, http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=17051.0

But i think you should be able to boot without point FT6U7, maybe try looking for a different problem. Read the nand back again and compare it to your original, you may of got a corruption when writing. If it doesnt match then re-write back the original.

You may even just have RROD.

Hi dicko46.

I think I'm killed my box.
after suck the flux at point STBY_CLK I saw that the cap was sucked too

Now when I press the power the box not even power on...

I think he dead!!!!!
any last idea??

** UPDATE **
I found a solution, just make a bridge without using the cap.. (who say that he is relevant lol)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-22%2023.40.40.jpg
but still no pic...

Dame this box is like a can - 9 souls ...

They are not caps they are resistors, also they are 0 (Zero) ohm resistors so are basically just jumpers, you can connect then with either wire like you have done or by solder, like when you bridged the Phat points on the glitch chip.

By looking at the picture the resistor above, at point R4B6 looks like its torn off or missaligned.

You dont really need that whole wire, just cut the wire just after the right pad at point R4B24, then remove the wire you soldered further down the STBY_CLK point.

Hi,

So there is another day with no progress, Still solid green no pic.

and this is all the facts:

1. my nand back to orig - verified (write the 50 block make all nand dump and compare to first one - OK)
2. it take about 37-40 sec to get rrod.
3. tried to use AV \ HDMI
4. tried to connect all component (DVD \ FANS \ HDD)
5. the nand reader is still connected (do I need to solder it off)???

I attached all the points that I solder \ de-solder for you check if there is sorts or something...

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2011.26.40.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2011.28.42.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2011.29.49.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2011.26.11.jpg

If you need some pic from other location just ask...

10X

I don't think this is RROD from heat because I let the box seat in heat like 5 min.
And If I remember the RROD from heat appear like 2-3 sec after turning the box on.

Do you know how to get the Secondery error codes for rrod? Wait till RROD then hold sync, then press eject, the ROL will flash a code, on the 1st press it will flash 1st number, then still holding sync press eject again, this will give 2nd number, repeat this 4 times, for the code, the 5th press should return it to your original RROD, unless there is more than one problem where it may flash out another 4 digit code.
4LEDs = 0
1LED = 1
2LEDs = 2
3LEDs = 3
Once you have the code look here for more info http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=484726

I would imagine it will be 0022 or something CPU related.

Looking at your pictures it looks like you have also torn off the pad at point CPU_PLL_BYPASS, the one on bottom side of CPU, look back at the page I posted before on how to repair this point. Your STBY_CLK point looks like it should be ok, its ugly but should be ok, just remove that little bit of trace wire thas hanging off from where the blob of glue is.

You can leave the nand reader attached this wont interfere with anything.

Good luck

Hi.

had 0022 - FIXED
Now I have 0110 = E20 - likely a Ram error, this can be caused by a cold or bridged solder joint on one of the Ram chips. = Form AV cable
And 0102 = E18 - from HDMI

I'm tring to let the console heat for 3 min and see what happen... - maybe its regular rrod...

and now I get....
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/22497770/2012-04-24%2016.13.12.jpg

My console looks like HELL.... - I has more wires then telephony switchboard center.

So, Who we continue from here???

So its now booting official dash?!?

PM me your email address too, communication on here is just too slow.

make sure you flashed the original firmware back to the system.. wrong firmware can cause 0022.. remove all cables check for splatter.. its usually shinier then other solder.. make sure nothings bridging.. maybe even gently brush the board off making sure you can see if something falls off...

if none of that works then do a proper reflow on the gpu then ram chips that are under the heat sink..