QUOTE(SlimXero @ May 12 2012, 08:58 PM)
Ok, so a few weeks ago, my dad's 360 began red ringing. It's an older model, over 3 years old that a friend of his got for him. Long story short, i purchased an X-clamp fix kit from Llama, and performed the fix, to the T. Cleaned both CPU and GPU, reapplied thermal paste, et al. We ended up having to overheat it 3 times as the first 2 times did next to nothing as we had the dvd drive sitting on the edge of the case, which was allowing the gpu to dissipate too much heat. 3rd time's the charm (or so we thought), left the dvd drive in and it got considerably hotter. Left it on for 45 minutes, and we also decided to wire the fan to an external 12v power source (12v 400mah, fans are rated for 12v 500mah) as we were uncomfortable trying to tie in to the dvd power source, and he doesn't really care if the back of the box has a cord coming out of it. Turned it off, waited 15-20 minutes, and everything worked fine for about 2-2.5 weeks.
Well tonight, we were playing dungeon siege III and we'd been experiencing crashes the last few nights. Last night we installed the game to the HD and tonight we connected to Live and downloaded the newest updates. Played for about 5 hours with no glitches/hiccups, but paused the game to go smoke and came back to a black screen. Controllers didn't work, etc, so we rebooted the xbox only to get the RROD again. No error codes displayed on screen, which is frustrating.
Does it need to reflowed/reballed, or does this sound like a cold joint somewhere, or should i try overheating it again? As i said, it's only really been overheated once, the other two times it didn't get nearly hot enough to reflow anything.
Thanks in advance.
TL;DR: performed xclamp fix, still red ringing. no error codes. help?
Ahh I'm not trying to bash you but it hurts my soul that these youtube fixes have taken over the internet. The x-clamp/overheat "fix" is not a fix at all. The error is caused by a cold solder joint usually, which means a small crack developed in a solder ball (usually under the GPU). The bolts put enough pressure on the chip to bridge the points, but only for a temporary amount of time. You are never supposed to overheat a system like that. There is a max operating temperature for the GPU when it is on and running, and there is another max temperature when it is off and not running. Needless to say, a reflow or a reball should be done when its off, because the max temperature is much higher. Even if the high temperatures didn't damage the chip when it was on, overheating like that does not even get the solder close to its melting point at around 212 degrees C. Your system probably still has hope, if reflowed PROPERLY or reballed.
You can get the secondary error code by holding down the sync button and pressing the eject button 4 times. Each time a different amount of lights will flash. Note that 4 lights = zero. Some common codes are 0102 and 0110.
Letting us know the error code can help us pin point the part of the board that needs the reflow. Also, for modding the fans, you can wire them right under the power port of the xbox, it will be a clean uninterrupted 12v source.
I don't recommend using a heat gun or oven to reflow as this can often cause localized thermal expansion and warp the board beyond repair, blow capacitors, or blow off tiny surface components.
If you wanted, I could reflow your board for you with my reworking station, but I don't have a reballing jig to do a reball.
I would charge 20 bucks + whatever shipping is for it, and I wouldn't mind just doing the 12v mod while I had it.
Otherwise, many of your local computer repair shops or game shops may have the equipment to fix it, but they may charge an arm and a leg and a lot of them refuse to touch any Xbox that has been opened.
I wish you the best! If you do decide to go the risky route and reflow it yourself, please please PLEASE buy some no-clean lead-free flux and flux the chip first. I can not stress this enough. You may destroy your whole board attempting to reflow, but at least you would have a nice clean and oxidation-free gpu reflow, assuming you don't reach temperatures that are too low or too high.