I ordered a CoolRunner and got the Rev B. I already had a Nand-X from all the JTAG's I've done in the past. This is my first RGH. I thought that I had researched the project properly but I quickly learned that I had not.

I had to order the nand-x to coolrunner cable so I could update the coolrunner. After getting that I learned that my Nand-X was outdated and needed to be updated as well so I had to oder the Nand-X USB update cable and update that.

After getting all the right cables and looking at several different wiring diagrams I finished the project using jrunner only to discover that my Zephyr won't boot after flashing the ECC and turning the Coolrunner to NOR. The green light flashes but nothing comes up on the screen.

I've done lots more reading since then and now I'm really confused. I've also double checked all my soldering to make certain they are all solid. I've read that you need to perform some kind of hardware hack to the Coolrunner and then jump the cap point? I've also read that you NEVER jump the cap point. So what do I really need to do in order to use my Coolrunner Rev B with my Zephyr CB 4575 and use the RGH 2.0?

Thanks for you help.

Right I'm presuming you have 2 to 3 good matching dumps of your nand.

To restore to stock nand follow my instructions in point 5)

1) Use good quality solder, flux and a good iron.

2) Then prep the board add flux to each point and add a bit of solder, Then prep the coolrunner, add flux to the pads (all except A) then add solder to those pads too, remove capacitor C15, then Dont bridge CAP, also add a 10ohm resistor to point D.

3) Put the coolrunner onto the top of the video port, then solder the wires that are on grid J2B1, then wire these to the coolrunner, VCC can go on point 7 or 8, 7 is standby power so its always on even when xbox is off, but some peeps say using point 8 which is switched power, so it only powers when Xbox is on works better, try both, and see what works best. Soler on the GRND wire too, add soler to a piece of the video connectors GRND shield and then attach the wire to that and then the Coolrunner.

4) Right switch coolrunner to Program, then with stock nand, boot the xbox, it should boot up fine, no errors what so ever. This is what we are after, if there are errors then something is wrong, remove 1 wire at a time and reboot inbetween to find the problems, once found re solder or clean up and try again.

5) Add all other wires 1 by one STBY_CLK is a hard point if you are not the best at soldering, I would try an alt point on underside of the board, F2R2, its just below one of the holes where the southbridge chip is.
Boot between all added wires, so add STBY_CLK, then boot, add POST_OUT1, then boot, etc. If you have a problem with it not booting then something is wrong with sorting or your soldering, recheck and re solder.

5) With all wires soldered and Xbox booting fine, now is the time to Flash the ecc file. Right use jrunner to create and flash the ecc file, if you get an error you have to start again, todo this you have to flash back to stock again and then reflash the ecc file.
Goto advanced menu in Jrunner then select Custom nand/cr functions.
Then select Write, 16, Open your original nand, then Start block is 0, length is 50, then click run, this will rewrite your original nands first 50 blocks back to the Xbox, to check all is ok boot the xbox it should boot fine.
Now turn off and reflash the ecc file with jrunner.

6) Set up Coolrunner Sxfv file RGH2.0 will work with any of the 4 file A B C & D, so try them all 1 by one. Set coolrunner to Normal, then Phat, (Try slim too it sometimes works)

7) if problems still persist and the xbox still wont glitch then try Cutting the CPU_REST wire to exactly 50cm try again, if no luck remove the 10 ohm resistor and try again. Also try cutting off 2.5cm's from the wire then trying again, once you get it to gltich this method also works to finetune boot times to approx 10secs.

[YOU CAN ALSO TRY THIS]
Martin C's solution on TX forums, use a resistor and cap in parallel, in place of the 10 ohm resistor on point D, he used 3.3kohm resistor and 470pf cap, you can try different values from 1k-3.3k ohm and 200pf-680pf and see what works best. This didnt work for me though.

What worked for me was to route the CPU_RESET wire ontop of the Xbox MB, then around and infront of the CPU, past the ROL, past the GPU and back to the coolrunner, I taped the wire down, glue works too. Without a 10ohm resistor on pad D.

Right I think that covers everything, one thing I noticed is that the final image I created with jrunner never ever worked, I had to use multibuilder, this was on a slim(RGH1) and a Jasper(RGH2) that I rescently RGH'd.

Thanks for the lengthy reply. I've already done all that.

My xbox boots fine before flashing the ecc file. So the wiring is good. I've wired the coolrunner just like TX's guide making sure to stear clear of the area they have circled.

I've used JRunner, jtag tool and even done it manually with nandpro. Ever time its the same step. All works great until I flash the ECC file and try to glitch to xell. At that point I just get a blinking green light on the CoolRunner.

Well thats everything you can try, I've literally given you about a 1000 variations to try.

You could try getting the shielded 50ohm wire but its never worked for me!

Nothing else can really be suggested!!!

I cannot honestly believe you have tried everything I suggested already either!?!

It literally took me over 10 hours to glitch the last Jasper 512mb box I did, bearing in mind I've done quite a few RGH'd systems myself, 3 so far this week alone, and just a little over 30 to my name so far this year. So seems as though this is your first RGH'd system I'd just be patient and keep trying variations.

How long are you waiting between gltich attempt?

I'd Flash RGH2.0 timing A, use 50cm CPU_reset routed topside of mother board, no resistor, then leave for 3 mins to boot, if it doesn't boot try again 2 more times exact same config. Then try RGH2.0 timing B and repeat, if that fails use timing C, then D etc. If still no luck try cutting off 2.5cm's then try all that again. Then still doesn't work cut off another 2.5cm's. Still no luck try the shielded wire or cut off more, still no luck try the resistor caps in parallel trick. All the time trying each one with each of the timing Files A-D, and trying each one 2-3 times for a good length of time.

You could always give up and send it to someone who knows a bit more?

Bridging the Cap point isn't going to do anything either because point A isn't used.

Pictures of all points would help too, I may see something you have missed.

It isnt an easy MOD by anymeans!

Thanks again! I really appreciate your help!

I will keep working on it. I've let it sit for over 10 min in between each flash to try. I'll use your suggestions and try shortening the wires etc and testing in between.

I've ran into road blocks while Jtag-ing before but for the most part everything goes according to plan. This is the first time where I've done everything right and it just won't work. I guess RGH-ing is more of learned science than Jtag-ing.

I've done a ton of mods for multiple systems going back to the first PS1 days so I know what I'm doing. I have 3 Jtag'd consoles in my home and have been doing these for years. I'm not new to the process and I'm very good with micro soldering. I don't mind working through these issues and getting this done right but in the end if I need to send it somewhere are you someone who does this for people?

I offer a RGH'd service in the UK for £55 inc return shipping.

I've been neglecting my BST thread on these forums as of late and havn't been pushing it like I used to. But I'll be updating it soon as I'm between jobs at the moment. I've got 7 TX deamon dual nands on pre order, I have a few matrix tridents, which work quite well too.

For the £55 service you get the RGH mod installed, I now use TX coolrunner rev c's, boot times get optimized, Nand backups on Cd/dvd, a bit of after sales service and advice, and return postage. I Normally offer Phat xbox Dvd frimware update free of charge too, as its only 2 mins extra work.

But if you supplied your own coolruner etc I could knock £20 off that, I wouldn't need any nandx stuff, just the RGH chip and console only.

If your intrested Pm me.

Thanks for the info. I'm in the US so shipping would be a bit pricey.

I just decided to bag it and RGH one of my other consoles that I use for online play. I'll just use this Zephyr for online play instead. I think my other is a Jasper.

Hope its not on latest dash as japers can sometimes be a bitch to glitch with RGH2.0, RGH1 however is a bit easier. Falcons tend to be easiest on RGH1.


If all fails, look in BST (Buy Sell Trade) section in the forums, there are plently of sellers there who could RGH a machine for you.

Really? Shite! I'm certain my Jasper is on the latest dash. I can't win.

So can someone tell me if I'm supposed to "mod" my CoolRunner Rev B so it can run RGH 2.0? I've seen pics where people are using resisitors or somehting on the CoolRunner Rev B so it will run RGH 2.0.

I said what you needed to do in my first post.

RGH2.0 remove capacitor C15, then use a 10ohm resistor on pad D.

RGH1 Needs cap C15, no resistor.

On rev C coolrunners they have designed it so you dont have to remove the C15 cap, you just bypass it by bridging 2 points. The same goes for the 10 ohm resistor.

Thanks again Dicko316. I appreciate all your help and guidance.

last ditch effort. Ordered a rev c coolrunner.

I don't think they are any better than Rev B. Well not for RGH2.0, it did make it easier to revert from RGH2.0 back to RGH1.0 but thats all really.

Make sure you follow the picture guides in Jrunner, eg remove 0ohm resistors on points JP and on points 2-3, then bridge 1-2 or solder the 0ohm resistor to pads 1&2. Then your setup for RGH2.0.

Gud luck!

I had no idea there were wire guides built into jrunner! I read guide after guide, googled and searched forums for a wiring guide for phat rgh2 and couldn't find one. There it was all along, inside the app under "images". I have been following the pdf that came with jrunner and it doesn't have me going into those other menus.

Anyway, I'm an idiot. I hope that after wiring up my CR the right way that it glitches properly.

Man I really suck at this! I've now followed the pics inside of JRunner for RGH2 on phat using CR rev c and it still doesn't glitch. I know all my soldering is good. I'm stumped at this point.

Give me details about your setup. what you have tried ect.

Photo's would help too, even if your confident about your soldering.

My last RGH2.0 config was like this.

I used combo of Jrunner (for ecc file) and Multibuilder to create final image, jrunners final image didnt work at all.
Config:
TX Coolrunner Rev C
C15 JP - Open
Cap - Open
R12 10ohm Resistor - Points 3-2 Closed
Cpu reset wire - 47.5CM, routed topside around CPU, past the ROL, around GPU and back to coolrunner.
No extra caps or resistors, sheilded wire didnt work.
Timing file - B
Xbox Type: Jasper 512mb
Results: Boots in approx 10 secs, xell in 5 secs.

Soldering on the jumper points on the CR look a little sloppy because I've been flashing the coolrunner with different timings and then bridging and unbridging to see if I can get it to glitch. I just didn't take time to clean up the board before snapping the pics.

Two xbox 360's

1. Zephyr
2. Falcon

Pics are of the Falcon.

I started by using the pics in JRunner for "RGH2 on phat w/ wires" (or whatever its called, I'm at work). I set everything up the way that the pics tell me to do for RGH2.

Then after that I used JRunner to read the nands and flash the coolrunner and ecc file to nand. After testing for xell and not being able to get it to glitch I went back and flashed coolrunner to timing A and then testing each jumper config with it. No dice. I then did the same thing with each of the other timings.

I've let each config sit for up to 5 minutes to wait for glitch and xell. Never happened.

I've wired and rewired several times. So much so that I've actually lifted the STBY_CLK point and had to use an alternate on the Zephyr. Ugh.

anyone?

Read where several people are having the same problems as me. They just bought a Matrix Glitcher v2 and popped it in using the same wires as the coolrunner and bam, it worked. So to me that suggests something wrong with my coolrunner. I'm going to order a Matrix chip right now.

(two wasted coolrunners for sale if anyone wants a rev b or rev c.)

It doesn't seem like you have tried too many configs! going by what you say above thats only about 8-12 combinations.

Have you tried different length wires? and types?

Have you tried different value resistors? instead of or as well as using the 10ohm one built into the circuit on cool runner rev C? try 0 ohm all the way through to 1k ohm.

Then there is the Cap and Resistor in parallel combo, you tried any of that?

You can wire up the Shielded cable/blue wire to the bottom of the board too have you tried that?

Have you tried a different ecc file from a different program?

I've mentioned everything you can possibly try in previous posts, you just seem to think there is a magic solution to your problem.

The last falcon I did took ages to get it to glitch it took a few days of messing on with different configs.

not sure on tx chips rev c chips, but for rgh2 on the chips i've used, you have to set the slim jumper/solder pointe. did you try setting the switch to slim? i thought rgh2 on phats was equivalent to rgh1 on slim (sda/scl) glitching cb_b (a different part of the bootloader)

Oh yeah, switched that puppy back and forth from phat to slim with dozens of different configs. Made no difference.



That's all I've been doing for that past two weeks now. Yes to all your questions. I've read and read and soldered and unsoldered many, many different combinations of configurations. No, I probably haven't tried every possible combination of configurations and wiring possibilities that exist for RGH. I've spent enough time trying with coolrunner. I'm moving to a different brand to see if that works.

If it takes too much longer I'll just go find a jtag-able xbox at one of my local pawn shops that doesn't take 30+ hours to perform the hack. I've found tons before and the last time I looked (last month) I found 6 total in three different shops. Only takes me 30 minutes to get a JTAG done. No fuss, no mess.

Thanks for all your help anyways. I'll report back if the Matrix works or not. After that I'm done messing.

Tried the Matrix Glitcher. No love.

I guess I'm really going to have to spend a few hours with the wiring configs and see if I can tweak this thing to glitch.

Status update:

I really took some time this weekend (almost my whole Saturday) and focused on trying to get either of my two systems to glitch.

I know that I'm missing something because I meticulously went through each wiring connection and tested for continuity and signal degradation. Everything is perfect. I rewired everything from scratch. The pictures in this thread are no longer relevant. I'll update later with more pics.

I tried all 5 different timings (A, B, C, D, and falcon) with every combination of jumped points on the CR rev 3 that I can find.

I can't get either box's (one is a zephyr and the other a falcon) to glitch to xell.

If you've seen my other thread you know that I no longer have the original nand for the falcon anymore (hard drive crashed right after flashing ecc file).

I now have:

1. Coolrunner rev B
2. Coolrunner rev c
3. Matrix Glitcher 2

and:

1. Zephyr with orginal nand
2. Falcon with ecc file flashed to it and NO original nand.

I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that I'm using Jrunner on both of these. Is it possible that I missed a step in jrunner or the program didn't do something right?

Maybe I should start from scratch on the Zephyr and see if I can follow a different guide that doesn't use jrunner. I don't know. I'm out of options here.

Guys I don't know what else to do here. I've checked all wiring of continuity and read over tons of different wiring diagrams and tried them all.

Is there anyone out there that can help me spot my problem? When the JTAG hack first came out it seams like there were a ton of great guides out there. Now all I have is wiring diagrams.

I guess that should be enough but neither of these two systems will glitch. At all. No matter what I try.

dude this thread has been going on for 4 months over, and were heading to 2013 soon. You should hire someone. A falcon should be easy as pie on RGH1. And a zephyr should be manageable but definitely a little more work. I don't know what else to tell you.

What a constructive and helpful post. Thank you.

You just bypass bridge 2 points. This also applies to the 10 ohm resistor.

Fippping heck....this RGH melarky sounds a nightmare for the Phats if you get a bad un (aka ball buster of a console)!!!!


Man I feel for you. If there is any love left in the scene, some glitch 'expert' should offer this dude an hour off their time and look at his RGH...fresh eyes and all that.