Hi guys,

I want to mod my 2 controllers i allready changed the green ROL lights to red ones.
And i have clear tumbsticks and 8 3mm red LED's i want to put 4 LED's in each controlelr.
2 on each tumbstick i asume i need resistors but what kind of resistors?

Thanks in advance

Wire them in parallel and them depending on how you wire, always on or rumble activated, you will not need resistor. Use a resistor calculator for exact resistor, I wired 3 3mm red to each thumbstick on one of my controllers and didn't use resistors. I have had no issues with the controller yet.

I soldered 2 LED's to a 3v powerpoint but as soon as i put in the battery the led's go on. I know i can solder them to the motor so they go on with the motor, but i just want them to be on when the controller is on

Do you know how to do this? Because i dont know mutch about electronics i just soldered some coolrunners but thats about it

Thanks in advance

Check the tutorial section for the version controller you have, there should be pin outs there also, worst case you will need a SPDT switch or transistor to control led power.

Pfff i tought this would be way easier Its easier to preform a RGH than soldering 4 leds into a controller haha

This is the version of wired controller i have: LINK

This is the version of the wireless controller i have: LINK

But i cant find anything about the powerpoints that are on when i power the controller. If anyone could help me with this one it would really be great.

I want to ad 2 LED's on each thumbstick on each controller so that would make 4 LED's in each controller.

Your links are reversed for the wired and wireless, but pretty sure I can work around that.

It really depends on how you're wanting to light them up as to how you need to go about it. Regardless, a Resistor should be used on an LED no matter the voltage.

There are a ton of online calculators that can do all that math for you. Just input the source voltage (your power supply voltage) the LEDs Forward Voltage (Fv it needs to work) and the Forward Current (mA rating of the LED) and it will do the work for you. Those specs are found in the DataSheet for the LED, or should be listed somewhere from where you purchased them, if not you'll need to guess based on other LEDs of similar types, but always start low.

With the wired controller it's easy enough, as you have a 5v power source from the USB cable. But, it's a constant one, so the LED will be on the whole time the controller is plugged into the 360. That's not really an issue unless it bothers you. The LEDs will last longer than the controller, even running all the time, provided you use the correct Resistor on them.

If you want them to be switched (turn on/off with the controller) then you'll need to use an NPN Transistor and a couple of Resistors or an OptoCoupler and Resistor and wire it up a different way.

The wireless controller is more work as it has no switched power source high enough that can drive the LEDs. You can either use an NPN Transistor and a couple of Resistors to make one, or an Optocoupler and a Resistor.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?sho...09315&st=15 - Transistor method, though you'd wire the Base to the Analog Voltage line of the controller on that CG2.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=703639 - OptoCoupler method.

You can do the same thing with the wired controller and a Transistor or OC to make a switched source for it also.

I just went to the store told him i wanted to solder 2 or 4 LED's to a 5volt suply and he gave me some 68ohm resistors i added 1 to each led and soldered 2 in the wired controller witch is more then enough light i tought i would need 2 but i would be blind then

But i dont understand anything they say in the links you gave me lol Its like chinese haha

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hpho...978364625_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hpho...496316405_o.jpg

1024 x 768 pic size is more than large enough, any larger messes with the forum layout and most people don't use 27"+ monitors for posting on forums. Gonna have to learn a new language, least some of it, if you're wanting to do any more than that simple wired up to a power source LED job there.


68ohm is a bit low IMHO for the typical Red LED and a 5v source, I'd guesstimate those should be around 150ohm or so. I'd Series up a couple of those 68ohm ones so you (effectively) had a 136ohm Resistor on there, or just stick another one on the other lead of the LED, it's all the same electrically either way there. That will knock the brightness down a good bit also. Probably keep them from dying early too I'd imagine, that 68ohm just doesn't seem right and is the value I'd use for a 3.3v source on the average Red LED.

But i added both wires to the same 5Volt source doesnt that devide the 5 volts trough the 2 LED's? making it 2.5volt so the 68ohm resistors would be enough?

Maybe i should watch some basic electronic video's first, because i can follow some basic instructions but i have no clue what im doing yesterday i smoked 2 LED's because i only added 1 68ohm resistor to the 2 LED's they had the same negative wire and the same positive now they each have a different wire and resistor but the same source.

Im doing this because i frying the LED is the worst that can happen. If it would really harm the controller i would not be doing this.

Im going to search the full specs of the LED's when i am at work.

Yeah, lets start with what wired in Parallel and Series really means with LEDs first.

Parallel - Both LED Anodes (the +) together and both Cathodes (the -) together is Parallel wiring. That means each one gets the full 5v, but they draw twice as much current (need more power) than just a single LED would. So you're giving each LED 5v, not 2.5v, and each one needs a certain amount of current to work and that adds up with the more LEDs you add in Parallel.

Example: You have that 5v source there from the controller. Those 2 LEDs in Parallel is pretty much the same for Voltage as a single LED is, each will get 5v from the controller, but the Current draw adds up. If you use a single Resistor on each LED (the correct way of doing it) then the value is based on the 5v and the current draw of the single LED. If you would want to use 1 Resistor for both LEDs in that Parallel setup you'd have to calculate it based on the combined current draw of both LEDs. That's not recommended as one LED can fry or open up and throw the whole thing off.


Series - If you wanted to give each LED half the voltage from a higher source like that, then you'd have to wire them in series to make the LEDs voltage requirement higher. One LED Anode to the other ones Cathode, + to -, like batteries in a flashlight, so you have a single + and - connection for the 2 LEDs to go to the power/ground connections. They also draw the same amount of current as just 1 LED in this setup, but that method isn't recommended as each LED isn't exactly the same, so one is going to get slightly more current than the other one and it can fail sooner, but it can be done that way. A Resistor still applies here also (it always should with LEDs) but it's based on the added voltage of the LEDs instead of the single value. How you have it wired right now is Parallel, not Series.

Example: The same 5v source, the same 2 LEDs, but since they are in series the voltage needed for them adds up. (say 2v per LED for this example) so you effectively have a single 4v LED there. The current stays the same in this series setup, so that 4v and whatever the single LED current value are what are used to calculate the Resistor value. This should only be done with LEDs of the same ratings and from the same batch. So if you get 6 LEDs rated at 2v all at once you could series them up to run off a 12v power source, since 2v x 6 = 12, but wiring them in Parallel with each one having it's own Resistor is still the best method for that kind of thing.


The formula for figuring out the Resistor value is R = (VS - VL) / I

R - Resistor (The value of the Resistor in Ohms)
VS - Voltage Souce (The power supply for your LEDs, 5v in the case of that wired controller)
VL - LED Forward Voltage (Depends on the color and how the LED was made)
I - Current the LED needs (Which is given in mA (milliAmps) for LEDs, so divide by 1000 to get the right number to use here, Example: For a 20mA LED you'd use 0.02)

So for that controller's 5v and a single Resistor that's, lets say 2v, and rated at 20mA, using that formula you get this..

Resistor value = (5vs - 2.1vl) / 0.02mA

5v - 2.1v = 2.9v

2.9v / 0.02mA = 145

So 145 for your Resistor value in Ohms, which is closest to the standard 150ohm value. Always go up to the closest value sized Resistor, going down will give it more current than it can handle and shorten it's lifespan.

To figure out what Watt rating the Resistor should be, you use the formula W = A x V

W - Watts (Power rating)
A - Current (The mA rating from the LED)
V - Voltage (The voltage drop across the Resistor, or what's left over after subtracting the LED voltage from the source voltage)

So fr0m that above formula you then get..

Watts = 0.02mA x 2.9v

0.02 x 2.9 = 0.058Watts or 58milliWatts

A 1W Resistor is 1000mW (1000 milliWatts), so it's more than big enough, as are a 1/4W (0.25 or 250mW) or even a 1/8W (0.125 or 125mW) since you only need something that can handle 0.058W in this example. Here also, the next highest rating should be used as a lower one will burn up sooner.


Have a read here for some more info on some of it, and if Google can't help find what you're looking for, then you're probably not looking for help on Google.

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm

Don't let all that math discourage you either, there are loads of online calculators that will do all of that for you if you want. This is just one of the many, many examples out there. http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Wow thanks you really took your time for that post.

Its still a little difficult to understand you said:



Why do you have to devide it by 1000 what do you get when you devide it or is that just the way to messure it.

Then the second line the resistor voltage is unknown right? the only thing i know about the resistors is that they are 68ohm.

I have PDF with the LED specs: http://www.sendspace.com/file/qpdjif (The Red ones)

So if i understand you correct or i need to wire each LED to a 3volt source with a 68ohm resistor or i need a stronger resistor?

They will be less bright right when i have a higher resistor? Now they are the right density but they are shining to hard so they will die soon? Or are we speaking about years

I will read some more this weekend i dont have that mutch time now, its way more complicated then i expected. On the calqulator i need to give "Source voltage, diode forward voltage and diode forward current (mA) " Isnt the diode forward voltage and the source voltage the same :s


Anyway thanks for the help, i just have 0 expirience. Guess i have some reading to do

RDC's explanation is perfect, just re-read a few times. When it is something you are not experienced in sometimes trial and error is the best way to learn. Good Luck

The LED is rated for 20mA, but if you plug 20 into that equation you're going to get the wrong value Resistor, because it's 20mA, which is 0.020 of 1000, which you get by dividing 20mA by 1000, 20 / 1000 = 0.02. Which was explained in the link. Just use an online LED calculator, the math part isn't for everyone, it's just nice to know how to do it if you ever need.

I'd have already put another 68ohm Resistor on each of those LEDs. I doubt they're going to last you years being driven with a 68ohm as that's giving each one more current than it can handle. If you have both LEDs in Parallel the you could use just one 68ohm Resistor for them both, but even then it's still going to over drive them some.

Source voltage and LED Forward voltage are not the same. Source voltage is the voltage you're using to power the LEDs, 5v in the case of that wired controller. The Forward voltage is the voltage the LED needs to work, it's Vf in the DataSheet there, which is 2v for that LED, provided that's the correct one. For most Red LEDs it's right around 2v anyway, so it's a good Vf number to use even if you're not sure of the rating.

That makes sense but when i use the "LED series/parallel array wizard" it says i need to input in mA so i put in these value's

Source voltage: 5v
diode forward voltage: 2
diode forward current (mA): 20
number of LEDs in your array: 2




So i dont understand why it would say its only 56ohm

Rightnow they are exactly soldered like this red and black are wires If replacing the Resistors with 150ohm ones that would be the easiest solutions right they cost almost nothing so i will just do that



Before it was soldered like this i asume they are both parallel since the + is never connected to -




This this is really simple compaired to what i will have to do with the wired controller, your explaination is very good tough never would have guessed that electronics where that complicated.

You should pay a little bit more attention there. That array is a series/parallel tool, and the answer it's giving you is for a series setup, not a parallel one.


You have several options for wiring those up with what you already have there..

You could do them in Series like the array wizard came up with and use a single 68ohm Resistor you already have. They would be slightly under driven, but still fine.

You could Parallel them both up and use a single 68ohm on them, like your second pic there, though they would still be slightly over driven.

If you have a couple more 68ohm Resistors you can put one more on each of the LEDs, on the ground leads or wire them in series with the existing ones, so you have 136ohms on each one, again still slightly over driven.

If you're just going to get new Resistors, then put a 150ohm Resistor on each LED and Parallel them up, as in your first pic there.

Hi this might help I did this a while ago but it never got posted in the tuts menu


http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=741267

Hope it helps. If you have questions just ask.

@satanicshrew: The controller is done allready thanks for the tutorial tough!

@RDC: Yea i know the link said i needed to solder them in series witch i found weird since you adviced not to.
Anyway i replaced the 68ohm resistors with 150ohm resistors and its still working great thanks for the help

Now i want to mod my CG2 wireless controller, So got myself a couple of optocouplers they only had ones with 6 pins i bought 100ohm ones since they should be able to work with 2 or 4 leds.


From what i understand it has these 4 things

Collector > 5Volt point (TP5 on the board)
Emitter > To the LED's (with 150ohm resistors between them)
Cathode > To the ground (TP22 on the board)
Anode > 1.5volt (TP8 on the board)


Now my questions are: how do i see what is what on the Opto chip?
Do i need to solder a 10ohm resistor between the 1.5 volt point and the anode, or does this value change when you choose 2 or 4 LED's?

Series wiring is perfectly acceptable, it just comes with the risk of if one LED in that string decides to fail, then all of the LEDs in that line fail, be it 2 LEDs or 100 of them, like how a broken link in a chain wrecks the chain.

I couldn't even guess what the pinout (what lead does what) of your OC is as you haven't give the part number for it, which you should use to look up the DataSheet for it, which will have the pinout of it, and just picking some random part out is a 99.9% guaranteed fail also.

There is no 5v spot on the Wireless controller, with the exception of the one at the PnC connector, which only has 5v on it when the cable is plugged up and connected to a USB port.

The wireless controller's maximum voltage depends on the batteries used in the thing, it can vary from as high as 3.3v with new AA batteries or charging the PnC pack, to as low as 2.2v when a PnC pack needs recharging or AA batteries are 'dead', so you need to plan for the max voltage there, which is 3.3v. That's your source voltage to get the Resistor value, the one from the Emitter to the LEDs. So not 150ohm in this case, but those 68ohm will work for those Red LEDs here.

The LEDs are going to dim with the battery voltage also, that's the nature of sticking them in a battery powered device without getting more technical and using an LED driver or some DC-DC boost regulator to make a nice regulated power source for them. The wired controller didn't have this issue because it has the regulated 5v source from the USB port to use.

Yes the OC needs the 10ohm Resistor otherwise you'll damage the LED inside of it and ruin the OC. It's value doesn't change as long as the 1.5v to the Anode doesn't change, which on the controller it doesn't.

I cant figure it out they best i got was the leds center squire lighted i little when the battery was inserted but the LED's didnt go on.

The opto transistor has 4N25 on it and a reversed RJ so i found this datasheet but its like chinese:

LINK

when i look at the picture on top it looks like

1 = Anode
2 = Cathode or Collector
3 = Not connected
4 = Emitter
5 = Collector or Cathode
6 = Base.


So if the above is correct should it be like this:

1 = 1.5Volt with 10ohm resistor (TP8 on the board)
2 = To the ground (TP22 on the board)
3 = Not connected
4 = LED's in parallel (with 68ohm resistor's)
5 = 5 volt point (No resistor)
6 = Not connected

LED's anode connected to 2 on the opto or directly to TP22


Is this correct?


Thanks in advance, i have respect you guys understand all this stuff

You need to remember there is some kind of dot or notch in that thing to indicate where pin 1 is actually at, then you go from there, and no, it's not completely correct.

1 - Anode, to 10ohm Resistor, then 1.5v, TP8
2 - Cathode, to Ground, TP22
3 - N/C (Not Connected)
4 - Emitter, to Anodes of LEDs, with the correct Resistors on them
5 - Collector, power source, there is no 5v in the Wireless controllers
6 - N/C

The Cathodes of the LEDs will go to some Ground spot.

Ok i did it and it worked

Yea i know you said it the post before, that its 3.3volt i just made a mistake while figuring out the OC pinout. I have the feeling the LED's are not that bright like they are in the wired controller so im going to put 2 more in so i have 4 in total.

Picture: LINK They are still a little on even when the controller is off : LINK

Cant say iv'e done this myself you did all the work Thanks!

The LEDs should be completely off when the controller is off, so either that OC is fragged or something is wired up wrong.

The OC was fragged, tried a different one worked from the first time